Bulova and Seagull Make Things Right (392)¶
Published on Thu, 14 May 2026 22:32:11 -0700
Synopsis¶
In this episode of the 40 and 20 WatchClicker podcast, hosts Andrew and Everett discuss recent watch releases and developments in the industry while enjoying Craig Alaki 13 scotch. Andrew returns from a work conference in Spokane, and the two dive into several significant announcements.
The main focus is Christopher Ward's comprehensive update to their C63 Sealander collection, featuring thinner cases, upgraded Sellita movements with increased power reserve, and a revolutionary new bracelet system called i-Link with push-button removable links. The hosts praise this as democratizing technology previously only seen in high-end watches like the Cartier Santos. They also cover Bulova's new 41mm Lunar Pilot Black Hole, Meister Singer's 25th anniversary enamel dial watch, Seagull's upgraded 1963 chronograph with improved finishing, Yema's full-lume CMM.20 Skin Diver, and Farer's new titanium pilot collection. Throughout, they explore how brands like Christopher Ward and Yema are pushing boundaries in affordable watchmaking by bringing high-horology features to accessible price points.
For other things, Andrew recommends the podcast "The Secret World of Roald Dahl," which explores the author's fascinating life as a British intelligence operative, while Everett enthuses about his new Koken Z-series Japanese ratchet wrench, a meticulously crafted tool that represents the pinnacle of precision engineering.
Links¶
Show Notes¶
- Bulova Lunar Pilot Black Hole
- MeisterSinger Unitas 1Z
- Christopher Ward Sealander Upgrades
- SEA-GULL 1963 Upgrades
- Rado Integral 40 year anniversary
- Yema Skin Diver Full Lume CMM.20 LE
- Farer Pilot Series
- The Secret World of Roald Dahl
- Ko Ken Wrench
Transcript¶
| Speaker | |
|---|---|
| Andrew | Hello, fellow watch lovers, nerds, enthusiasts, or however you identify. You're listening to 40 and 20, the WatchClicker podcast with your hosts Andrew and my good friend Everett. Here we talk about watches, food, drinks, life, and other things we like. Everett, how are you? |
| Everett | I'm I'm doing well. Thank you for asking. Andrew, I had to last week pain f painstakingly write that intro. How |
| Andrew | many times did you just have to listen to me say it to like dictate it |
| Everett | to you. It took me back to like sixth grade trying to write down the lyrics of a song with a cassette tape, right? That's what it took. |
| Andrew | Uh yeah, I d I do a fair |
| Andrew | amount of transcribing work in as a function of my job, so I'm I'm familiar with that pain. |
| Everett | You know, we've got old school dictaphone machines at the firm. We you know the the young lawyers don't use them, but we've got one lawyer who does from time to time. We've kind of gotten them out of the hat a bit because it's like like I I talked to him about uh like just money. I was like, look, this is a a good financial decision not to do this. Uh and that was what finally connected because it wasn't like people that this is old school, that wasn't gonna do it. Like the staff doesn't want to do it, that wasn't gonna do it. I was like, just think about it from a money aspect. Think about the time that you spend doing that. |
| Andrew | And not billing. And |
| Everett | think about the time that your staff spends doing that. You know, and kind of like crunch the numbers on it. And he's like, Okay, all right, yeah, I'll work on it. You know, I'm still gonna use it for some things and like so uh but you can the it's a really record we've got like a dictaphone transcription room that that's what it gets used for, uh, because it's like just annoying and loud and so every once in a while you'll see someone in the it's the clerk space is what it is, but they'll be in there with the machine and headphones and gross. |
| Andrew | Uh yeah. |
| Everett | Uh how are you? Uh I'm good. |
| Andrew | I'm You're back in the state. I'm I am back home, obviously, which is nice. Uh work trip was fine. Like |
| Andrew | conferences are always fun 'cause you get to go and interact with other people who do the same thing that you do and get the opportunity to learn some things. And I'd never been to Spokane |
| Andrew | before. I don't think I'll ever go back uh on purpose at least. I |
| Everett | think it's so beautiful out there. It |
| Andrew | is. And I saw marmots and a beaver. Cool stuff. Um the nearest place I mean, and Spokane's bigger than Eugene. |
| Everett | Yeah, it's uh what, like three hundred thousand people, right? |
| Andrew | Two hundred and twenty. Okay. Uh when I look. So it's it's kinda like our metro area condensed down into a single city. |
| Everett | Yeah. Uh their river is way cooler than |
| Andrew | ours. There's like a big waterfall through the city. It's |
| Andrew | gorgeous. Uh but the next nearest place is Cor |
| Andrew | Lane, which is like 40 minutes away. Also gorgeous, |
| Everett | though. Uh yeah, uh also gorgeous, but |
| Andrew | definitely like not a I |
| Andrew | don't I don't outside of work conferences don't see a world where I'll ever make it back there. |
| Everett | When cops go in a work conference, how how far does the hair get let down? |
| Andrew | Well no hair on top of me. Okay. |
| Everett | Okay, the proverbial. To the fluor, |
| Andrew | I think. It's like any other work conference, right? Like how how weird do |
| Andrew | you get when you go with your partners on a ski trip? |
| Everett | Yeah. Well, I mean, but we don't get that |
| Andrew | weird. We're weird anyhow. You don't get that weird. I |
| Andrew | I'm sh certain of that. Maybe some of those cops do. |
| Everett | No, but you know, I'm reminded of a thing a colonel told young Lieutenant Meadows once, which is that it doesn't matter what rank of soldier you take. If you take one of any rank and stick them in a room, if you take several of any rank, the same rank and stick them in a room together. So take seven generals, take seven captains, take seven sergeants, they all turn into seven privates. |
| Andrew | The conversations will be virtually identical in all three rooms. |
| Everett | That's right. Just yeah. That's |
| Andrew | right. So well, I mean it's it's a |
| Andrew | it's a big conference. So my team, we |
| Andrew | rather than staying in the hotel, we s |
| Andrew | we rent houses like Airbnbs so that we can all like |
| Andrew | eat food and like hang out together. The |
| Andrew | first night, they were like, oh hey, the uh hospitality suite opens at 10 p.m. And I was like, fuck |
| Andrew | no. Uh so that's if |
| Andrew | if that's any indicator of how far the hair gets let down. |
| Everett | Okay. Yeah. Well, that is that is an indicator. Um quickly before we start, we are drinking a scotch tonight. I've poured you a dram of scotch. I'm drinking the same. This is actually a follow-up to my other thing from last week, in which Andrew wasn't here for, but my other thing also |
| Andrew | don't listen to the show, so I didn't hear last |
| Everett | week was um Glenn Farkless 105, which I think is maybe just my very favorite non-peated scotch. Maybe I well, uh I'll stop there. Um this is Craig Alaki's 13, and it is a worm tub scotch, non-peeded. Um I I gotta say, Andrew, I have when I first really got into this is a space side, but it's sort of got that same sort of very like rich bourbony. So I think that the Craig Allocky is is aged half in bourbon, half in um sherry barrels, uh much like the Glenn Farkless and you get this like orchardy but also sherry. Um and because it's so I I told you you really have to put a piece of ice in this because it's it's pretty syrupy. |
| Andrew | Yeah. And even with the ice, you get |
| Everett | like a almost like oily. Oh |
| Andrew | yeah. It's like the legs on this thing are |
| Everett | and with that, it is just the most interesting I I mean I I I started go back and forth between the Glen Glenn Farkless and this in terms of non-peated scotches. I really enjoyed this. It was weird. I took my first drink and I was like, that's weird. But then I was like, oh, but you know what? |
| Andrew | Everything works what? |
| Everett | Golly. So this is a follow-up to the Glenn Fockless. It's not my other thing. I'll leave it alone there because we're not here to talk about scotches. I just wanted to, I'm not gonna do uh other things scotch two weeks in a row. I've done that before, I won't do it now. But this is that follow-up. I think it's delicious. We're not here to talk about scotches, rather, we're here to talk about watches. Andrew and |
| Andrew | Scotches and watches. Welcome back. Since |
| Everett | you've been gone. Since you've been gone. Would you like to lead us off? |
| Andrew | Since you've been gone. Scotches and watches. |
| Everett | That's a good we that's we should we should think about that. We should |
| Andrew | we're actively doing it. Um oh gosh. I'm still having that issue uh organizing my tabs. Um oh I kinda wan I want to start with a little bit of a throwaway that I also sort of love. |
| Andrew | Uh the Bulova Lunar Pilot Black Hole. They finally did it. They've brought the case size down to a much more appropriate 41. Like this could be finally the lunar pilot that I buy. Because the problem that I have with the lunar pilot is the same problem I have that with the speedmaster, but exacerbated by the case shape of the lunar pilot. Uh, it's just a slab. I would very much like to get my hands on one of these. So what we have here is uh the Bolova Lunar Pilot, um, exactly what you expect it to be, uh, but it's in all black. Um comes Comes with a box and a cool travel clock. |
| Everett | It is a cool travel clock. instrument |
| Andrew | feel. Circle and square, yes. |
| Everett | Yeah. And which is, you know, that's |
| Andrew | typical aviation uh instrumentation vibe. Right. But when I saw that, I was like, oh, they this is a partnership? |
| Everett | They're it looks more like Bell and Ross than it does. |
| Andrew | They're not aping Bell and Ross. They're aping |
| Everett | the same design that Bell and Ross used to create its |
| Andrew | out of it's it's just aircraft instruments. That's that's what these are. Uh but a cool travel clock. They're only making uh six thousand of them. They're sixteen hundred and fifty bucks, which is like um kind of a throwaway, but all all murdered out uh 41 millimeter black PVD. This is it. I'm I'm excited because I I know that this means that Boulevard is gonna do the right thing and make sweeping changes and and introductions. |
| Everett | What makes you think that Bulova's gonna do the right thing? Well like what what about Bulova makes you think they're gonna do the right thing. |
| Andrew | Nothing. Exactly nothing. |
| Andrew | I that's a hope that I have. I I hope beyond hope uh that this means that because the the standard lunar Potsil 444. |
| Everett | 5, yeah. 45. Yeah. Oh yeah. |
| Andrew | It's big. Big motherfucker. So coming down to 41, it's gonna be really, really wearable. Uh |
| Everett | yeah. And and my my sincere |
| Andrew | hope is that they they drop in 41 unless they already have 'em. I've never seen it. Like I've never seen a reduced lunar pilot, but I also don't check often. |
| Everett | You know, this is but you know, it comes in a I think 13 millimeters thick, which is by no means absurd. Uh especially for the brand and the type of watch. But it it is proportionally quite a bit thicker. It is relatively quite a bit thicker than the lunar pilot. I I believe. I I believe that's correct. I think |
| Andrew | the f the big ass lunar pilots also 13 |
| Andrew | millimeters thick. That's right. And so you notice |
| Everett | it in the case profile. I do wish that they would have brought I do wish they would spend a little bit more time with that aspect of this. Um with that said, I I think it's great. It's an it there's some interesting decisions made. Well one the glossy bezel on top of the like very, |
| Everett | very stoic chalky |
| Everett | black flat finish. It feels weird to me. |
| Andrew | Oh, I really like it. It works, but |
| Everett | it feels a little off to me, or it feels a little odd to me. Um, the chalky finish in and of itself, I think, is an interesting decision. I don't hate it, but it is gonna scuff and mar even the product shots that they've shared on Hodenki here. You can tell at the clasp it's already. I mean, this thing is gonna be |
| Andrew | It's gonna be so good. |
| Andrew | It it yes, but also |
| Everett | it it is gonna be patina, right? |
| Andrew | Yeah, but immediately like you're not even gonna have to earn it. It's just gonna happen. |
| Everett | I I don't agree with or I don't disagree with you that it's gonna be good. I |
| Andrew | think you're right about that, but it's it's |
| Everett | gonna be intense. That patina's gonna be intense. |
| Andrew | Yeah. Uh I I |
| Andrew | like it's a little bit of a throwaway because it is boulevard. |
| Andrew | I I I think this style of pusher, these |
| Everett | uh it's my favorite part of the watch. I I think |
| Andrew | they're my favorite pushers ever on a chronograph. |
| Everett | Maybe, maybe me too, yep. Uh I love 'em. |
| Andrew | They integrate so well into the the |
| Andrew | case shape but they're |
| Andrew | not the none of their functionality is lost in that in that size and shape of a pusher |
| Everett | yeah I agree I've I this is a watch |
| Andrew | that I've always really liked and but I always hated hated the |
| Andrew | size. |
| Everett | Uh yeah, I I mean you you So |
| Everett | we've talked about that since uh well |
| Everett | since w the Mexico episode. So the very first year of Forty and Twenty, we went to Mexico, I think, and um you tried that on and you were like, just can't do it. Not gonna do it. |
| Andrew | Maybe could now. I'm gonna be a little bit of a size queen, but |
| Everett | um I'm gonna I'm gonna talk about a watch that I really like in theory, um, which is not to say I don't like the watch. I I do like the watch. I just I I know this like I saw this and I was like, that's super cool, and I would never want it. Um Meister Singer released a special edition 25th anniversary tribute to its origins |
| Everett | with its UnitedS 1Z |
| Everett | edition with enamel dial. Uh so 25 years ago, Meister Singer released its first watch uh or its first single-handed watch. Uh with a Unidas One Z uh |
| Everett | stopwatch movement. |
| Everett | And that was the Meister Singer. They have gone back in time and have released a commemorative version, a 40 millimeter, which is a great |
| Everett | size, with a absolutely |
| Everett | gorgeous, genuine enamel dial, heat blued hand, stunning movement, absolutely enormous see-through case back. Um, and I just think it is almost perfect. It comes on a light blue crocodile strap. It is stunning. It's stunning. The case is exactly what you'd expect. |
| Andrew | You want to feel real shitty about yourself? |
| Everett | Uh sure. Let's do it. |
| Andrew | The original was released in 2004, and this is the 25-year anniversary. I know we're getting |
| Everett | old, right? I do not |
| Andrew | like that. Like it couldn't have been 2000 |
| Everett | and oh no, nope, that math tracks. You know, I was listening to |
| Everett | um I was listening to m music with my daughter the other |
| Everett | day and uh running came on uh |
| Everett | uh uh by gosh I'm just blanking on the name of the group uh |
| Everett | Are you gonna are you gonna be a looking, yeah? |
| Everett | Why I I uh this |
| Everett | feels uh this feels like uh an old man moment it which |
| Everett | is perfect for this |
| Everett | story because the far side boy |
| Andrew | said it released Run-in |
| Everett | in 1995, and in that song, they say in the beginning of the third verse, it's 1995. And my daughter was like, Dad, you are |
| Everett | so old that |
| Andrew | your music preferences are uh vintage. They're not even retro. |
| Everett | And I was like, gosh, I remember when I remember when Lab Cab in California came out and I was like a human. I was an adult. Like I was a kid legitimately, but I was like a living thinking person with |
| Andrew | self-awareness, goals and dreams |
| Everett | and uh yeah, that was 30 years ago. 31 years ago. And Betty's like, Dad, you are really old. Anyway, Meister Singer. So this is a multi-day nail. I mean, it |
| Everett | is just really beautiful. Only |
| Everett | 25 of them being made. And they're 7,000 euro. You can't probably get one. I mean, maybe. |
| Andrew | Probably not. They're going to be available sometime Q2 |
| Everett | of 2026, which is technically now, but I don't know when these are available. I I just think this is gorgeous. I love it for what it is. I love that they're only doing 25 of them. I love the I love the 60 the the uh what is the movement it's not a uh 6497 I was gonna say 6947 so I'm glad I looked uh Unitus movement, which is a converted stopwatch movement. It's just great. This is such a cool watch. And yet, I don't want it. I don't |
| Andrew | yeah, I I think this is like a watch |
| Everett | for a for a like either a Unidas freak or a Meister Singer freak or but that's perfect because they're only making 25 of |
| Andrew | them. I think that's what it is though about the about |
| Andrew | Meister Singer watches. I've not seen a single watch they |
| Andrew | released that I don't like. |
| Everett | And not a single one that you would buy? Not a single one |
| Andrew | I would buy. I love a single-hand |
| Andrew | watch. I think it's kind |
| Andrew | Kind of uh like whimsical, but also still really |
| Andrew | functional. I'm their watches are all gorgeous, their color designs are perfect, um, but they're just not for me. And I don't know |
| Andrew | exactly why. |
| Everett | I love them. But they're |
| Andrew | not for me. |
| Everett | Yeah. What's next, |
| Andrew | oh we have a |
| Andrew | huge move from Christopher |
| Andrew | Ward. They've done some things. And and in a big way. So |
| Everett | Yeah, let's buckle it because I think we're gonna be here for a minute. |
| Andrew | Yeah, I that's why I wanted to get to it early, |
| Andrew | because I think this will kind of um This |
| Everett | will set the tempo of the rest of the This will dictate |
| Andrew | what else can happen tonight. Uh so the C63 Sea Lander Collection, which includes a 36 and a 39 |
| Andrew | 3 hander and a 36, 39, |
| Andrew | 41 GMT, |
| Everett | yep, uh has |
| Andrew | been updated in a lot of ways. In in the most Christopher Ward of ways, they've iterated on a |
| Andrew | watch by basically dropping an entirely new line and revolutionizing all |
| Andrew | of the things that they're doing in these watches that were already fantastic. |
| Everett | Yeah. I I think that's a fair |
| Andrew | a fair tagline for this. So |
| Everett | just before you start, every article I've read |
| Everett | about these releases has |
| Everett | referenced the Belcanto and um the locos and these watches that Christopher Ward is really sort of pushing that bleeding edge on uh as sort of context for these releases, because these releases don't do the same things as the local canto. In fact, they are uh I would say they are the other arm of Christopher Ward. These are the flagships of the other arm of Christopher Ward. But it's worthwhile to reference those things because this is that push is pushing here. |
| Andrew | Well, but it's the same thing, manifesting in different ways. Right. You know, we have Christopher Ward's Belcanto, which was |
| Andrew | perhaps one of the most important affordable watch releases |
| Andrew | of this century. Yeah, I mean |
| Everett | we could argue about that word important, but I I I th I hear what you're saying. Yeah. It it's a really it's a really interesting release. |
| Andrew | The they took something that was previously unobtainium, |
| Andrew | re engineered it, and |
| Andrew | then made it attainable. And |
| Andrew | and r and and not just like oh man, I I could pinch like I can maybe you know liquidate my 401k attainable. |
| Everett | Yeah, yeah. It's it's |
| Andrew | truly a reachable watch. Like it would take deliberate saving and some planning for, but a purchase. I mean the Bel Canto is what five grand? |
| Everett | And yeah, that's right. And and they did it without cheating, right? In any way, |
| Andrew | yeah. I think that's the important bit there, right? |
| Everett | They made this just incredible horological thing, and they did it without cheating. And I'm I'm gonna I'm putting up finger quotes when I when I say cheating, but I I think that there are some really common ways that companies, uh certainly like East Asian companies, have been able to do similar types of things, but but often, if not always, there's some stuff that you're like, okay, well there was some corners cut here or there was |
| Andrew | they just dropped a module on a on a Miyota |
| Andrew | movement. Sure, or they were creative with the urology. |
| Everett | Christopher didn't do that. They're just making fine things. |
| Andrew | In the right way. Yeah. And this |
| Everett | not that the like yeah, I'm I'm I want to be a little careful with that, but yeah. |
| Andrew | But but they're not and what I mean in the right way is that then they're not they're not imagining ways |
| Andrew | to circumvent the way to do it, |
| Andrew | right? They're they're being really creative and really innovative. |
| Andrew | Yeah. And they're |
| Andrew | not just finding the quickest way to make it happen, so they can put |
| Andrew | it to market. Yeah. And and the the the |
| Andrew | the process is clearly a really important component of Christopher Ward's design. |
| Everett | They're like, we actually just did the thing in the way they did it and are able to give it to you for a lot less money. |
| Andrew | Yeah. And and still really well manufactured, really well finished, well spec'd. |
| Andrew | Uh so with the C sixty three we |
| Andrew | have um really, really subtle changes that are enormous, right? So it's the same thing that that the |
| Andrew | Bel Canto did. This was a huge |
| Andrew | impact in affordable watches. They took a high horology thing and democratized it and were like, we can all have this |
| Andrew | shit now. Um, I feel |
| Andrew | less uh moved by the loco, but they've they've done a similar-ish thing. |
| Everett | We talked about that on the show. Um here, |
| Andrew | you the changes are almost imperceptible when you just get a top-down view of the watch. |
| Everett | Yeah. Don't disagree. This |
| Andrew | is just smashing all of |
| Andrew | the cool technology design methodology into the watch. So um what we have |
| Andrew | just like overarching. We have a give |
| Andrew | us a give us a a 10,000 five. We have a thinner watch, an updated light hatcher case. |
| Everett | Two two watches, right? So this yeah, we've got two thinner watches, two upgraded light catcher cases. |
| Andrew | Two upgraded light catcher cases, two upgraded movements with longer power reserve. They're still using a Salida oh |
| Everett | yeah base. No, no, this is the new Solita. Uh so we talked this is maybe two months ago. We talked about the new Salida 200 calibers. I as far as I know, Christopher Ward is the first company to come to market with that new what is it, the 200-2. |
| Andrew | Yeah, is it? Hang on. I'm sure I'll find |
| Andrew | it eventually. |
| Everett | Yeah, the 200-2 Power Plus Caliber. As far as I know, they're the first company to use that new caliber in in a watch at market. |
| Andrew | I mean, they kind of have to be. |
| Everett | Why? Why do you mean? Because it's a brand |
| Andrew | new caliber. Well, sure. But well, |
| Everett | yeah. And it's like to be put pushing something |
| Andrew | out at scale. This is the first I |
| Everett | was actually a little surprised. I was surprised that Salito made the announcement to the world |
| Andrew | I mean, I think this is probably |
| Everett | You think that's that this is that I |
| Andrew | think we're seeing that. Yeah, maybe. Maybe they released it. They were like, hey, this is now available to World. I'm sure Christopher Ward, because they've had such a close relationship. I was just surprised at |
| Everett | the I I'm personally surprised at the delay. |
| Andrew | I think it's a a from marketing standpoint. No, I hear you, and I don't disagree. Uh, but what we have is an increase to 65 hour power reserve on this uh on the uh three-hander and a 56 on the GMT. We still have 150 meters of water resistance. Oh, and and by the way, also uh a totally new bracelet design. Because the one thing, the one bitch I've always had about Christopher Ward is that fucking pin and collar nonsense bracelet. Sizing their bracelets was a pain. Um |
| Everett | No more. This is possibly the easiest bracelet on earth to size, right? |
| Andrew | Yeah, I mean theoretically it's a it's exactly it's not exactly like the Santos or any push button pins. So maybe we can just go |
| Everett | I there's nothing else like this, I don't think. Uh so these new bracelets each other each of the removable links have their own button. So you want to take a link out, you just push a button on the link, pull that link off and resize. I that's how the |
| Andrew | Santos bracelet is. No, it is |
| Everett | not, it's got screws in the links. No. |
| Andrew | Should I go get it for you? Yes, go |
| Everett | get it. It does not do what this watch does. |
| Andrew | You can continue talking. I'll be |
| Andrew | right back. Alright, |
| Everett | we've reviewed the tape. I will say stand corrected. |
| Andrew | Sort of, right? Sort of. You |
| Andrew | weren't wrong. It's objectively different, but it's a similar |
| Everett | similar concept. The concept remains. Right. |
| Andrew | It's a it's a a button that you depress that releases the |
| Andrew | pin that then slides free. |
| Everett | Well, uh so I didn't realize that about the Santos, and I am gonna just for the record say the Santos is uh even |
| Everett | though it was already one of the coolest watches |
| Everett | on earth, is uh instantly a little bit cooler |
| Everett | in my mind. Um so |
| Everett | Christopher Ward is the first watch under five thousand dollars to do this. |
| Andrew | Absolutely. And without it. Without any |
| Everett | reservation. I can agree with that. Links has a button that you can depress that actually allows you to remove that link via a set of three pins. It's, I think it is |
| Everett | incredibly cool. Uh |
| Everett | also the links are what a millimeter |
| Everett | shorter? Thinner. Right? They can't be full millimeter thinner? |
| Andrew | They're way thinner. That's awesome. Way shorter. |
| Everett | And the clasp oh, the clasp is a full millimeter |
| Everett | thinner. Yes. Sorry. Yes. |
| Andrew | So w they and that's another that was a problem I th I felt like with Christopher Ward's bracelets is that they were chonkers. Uh they were super comfortable, they were really well engineered, they were really well manufactured, but they were thick with about seven C's. |
| Everett | Yeah. And slimming |
| Andrew | these down, shortening them up, and adding this really, really |
| Everett | compelling, awesome, rapid |
| Andrew | sizing technology solves every gripe that anyone could have ever had with Christopher Ward's bracelets. |
| Andrew | Yeah. It's just like it's gone. It's |
| Andrew | a thing of the past now. Yeah, |
| Everett | these are crazy cool. Um I I think stylistically the GMT, the C sixty three GMT, has a bit I mean, they're definitely leaning a little bit t more towards the source material in a way that I don't hate, but that is undeniable. |
| Andrew | It's notable. Yeah. Um they |
| Everett | are. Well, let's talk about pricing. So these are coming in at I just had it up. So the |
| Andrew | GMT on the |
| Andrew | bracelet is 1650. |
| Everett | On the beta bracelet is 1560 |
| Everett | euro. Where on the concert is 1,615. |
| Andrew | Yes. Rubber, which you shouldn't get, 1,480. |
| Everett | Yeah, that's dumb. Don't do that. And leather 1350. |
| Andrew | Also, don't do that. And |
| Everett | then the new C63. Oh well, |
| Everett | yeah. Yeah. That's terrific. |
| Everett | I mean, this like they are I mean that's what we'd expect. These prices are what we would expect, but good God. |
| Andrew | Yes. And what we know about Christopher |
| Andrew | Ward is they do 3X for |
| Andrew | like as their pricing model. Well we know |
| Everett | at least at some point. I'm not sure they're still doing that. I would suspect that they do. Me too. |
| Everett | Me too. And we also know that |
| Andrew | they often on some of their more developed like like expensive development watches go under that. |
| Everett | Yeah. I would suspect that |
| Andrew | this is probably an under 3X cost. |
| Everett | So this price we just gave were for the GMT, the this the automatics are 1335 on beta euro. These are all euro, sorry. Thir one thousand three hundred and thirty-five euro or one thousand three hundred and ninety euro on the consort. |
| Andrew | Which is about I think I paid |
| Andrew | about a thousand for the |
| Andrew | C63, like the OG, right after they released for the first time. |
| Everett | I I gotta think, I gotta think, you know, we've talked a lot about |
| Everett | yeah you know formex and |
| Everett | manta it you know and re more recently yemma sort of like pushing limits Christopher Ward is still just slaying at that well under 2000 range. |
| Andrew | Yeah. I mean they're just they're crushing |
| Everett | it. These watches are these watches are, at least on paper. I haven't touched one. Up full full disclosure. |
| Andrew | I but but you have |
| Andrew | touched a C sixty three, the O the OG |
| Andrew | release. So what we know is that if you've got a |
| Everett | C sixty three, which I I had some complaints about. |
| Andrew | You did. I love it. I love |
| Everett | it. I love it too, but I have some reasonable complaints about that. |
| Andrew | It's now thinner. The the design changes that they've made are really subtle. On the C sixty three three hander, they've thinned the bezel a little bit and really opened up that dial. Yeah. Uh |
| Andrew | yeah, the proportions on the bezel are way better. |
| Andrew | I I also like it. I don't know better. I don't know if that's a word I'm willing to use, but I really, really like it. It's an upgrade that I'm really comfortable with. Um if they'd have maintained the the previous proportions, I would also remain okay with that decision. |
| Everett | They also added a 42 millimeter. Did we t did we mention that? |
| Andrew | It's hard to say. I don't know if we did or not because they this is basically a whole new |
| Andrew | page in the catalog. I don't know if we did. |
| Everett | They've got some new colors. There's a pistachio, there's a light blue, which I don't love the light blue. |
| Andrew | I don't either. Um the pistachio |
| Everett | is interesting. Um yeah. This is a really cool release. So they're |
| Andrew | calling the uh new bracelet system the i-link system uh folding micro adjustable ratchet clasp uh both the consort and the beter |
| Andrew | are coming with the new i-link. I imagine that's the new standard. |
| Everett | I got it. Yeah, word bracelet |
| Andrew | methodology. You gotta think. Yep. If you haven't seen it yet, it is |
| Everett | Yeah, click the link in the show notes. It's really cool. |
| Andrew | It's surprising that this is revolutionary. |
| Andrew | Like bleeding edge of |
| Andrew | technology and development. You |
| Everett | know, w um as I sit here I'm I'm thinking about that uh Cartier bracelet, those buttons on those links are almost invisible. Yeah you that the machining on that is just absurd. |
| Andrew | And push one. |
| Everett | Yeah. I well I was trying to push it and I couldn't like find it. |
| Everett | Well, you have that problem a lot. That's |
| Everett | true. It it's just I, mean they, almost disappear. That is just non-marring |
| Andrew | over there. I don't even. It's on the inside of the |
| Andrew | bracelet. Even if there's something marring over there, |
| Andrew | you can you can mar my bracelet. |
| Everett | I'll mar your bracelet. |
| Andrew | Uh but really, I mean I think I think this is as cool of a release. |
| Everett | Oh yeah, look at that. You just just |
| Andrew | a little bit of pressure is all it takes and |
| Andrew | it just pops right out. And the finishing |
| Everett | is so good. Yeah. Yeah, dude, that is rad. Okay. I'll push |
| Andrew | that. Push that puppy back in. And it just clicks and locks and |
| Everett | And then it's in there. Yeah, it's just it there's like |
| Andrew | there's a little spring. The feedback is |
| Everett | really nice too. Um Jesus. |
| Andrew | This is as exciting and as groundbreaking a release as the Belcanto, I think. |
| Everett | I'm gonna I'm gonna push back on that. But they it's really cool. I'm ex- I've I'm I'm excited about |
| Andrew | it. They took already existing ideas, technology and methodology and then decided to make it super affordable. |
| Andrew | Yeah. Make it themselves and be |
| Andrew | like, hey, you guys can still buy this. We're not we're not pushing into the ten thousand dollar range yet. |
| Everett | Gosh man. |
| Everett | I think I've gotten bigger. I feel like we used to be able to wear the same watches. I need to get one of |
| Andrew | these. It's Yeah, |
| Everett | no look, it's I think you've gotten smaller, I've gotten fatter one of the |
| Andrew | two. I've gained a bunch of weight in the last six months. So you always have different hand shapes. Like you have you have wider palms than I do. |
| Everett | Um what to say about people with wide |
| Andrew | palms. I am wearing my Tokyo big gloves |
| Everett | tonight. And I do love that. That's a really |
| Andrew | that's a really good watch. Speaking |
| Everett | of even speaking of the Kwame |
| Andrew | Tokyo, I I do wish that there was like |
| Everett | just just a touch more |
| Andrew | texture to the finishing of the case. I love the case finishing. I I want like a heavier brush where it's brushed. |
| Everett | I think the finishing is just almost Oh |
| Andrew | it's it's perfect, but I I want I just I think I'd like a little bit more contrast. But I I I adore this watch and I'm very, very happy that you got it. What's going on? |
| Everett | Oh I it I just have it on a a random nice pebble |
| Everett | grain strap that I have. I like that. Yeah. It's a nice sort of like dressy pebble grain. |
| Andrew | Yeah, these are killer. It it's such a |
| Everett | good watch. I every time I put it on, I'm like, oh |
| Everett | man, I'm so glad that I got this. |
| Andrew | Yeah, that dude from the Atlantic hooked it up. |
| Everett | Yeah. It's a really covered watch. Um seagal. |
| Andrew | Oh, you didn't send me that link. |
| Everett | I did. Oh. Send you that link. Oh, |
| Andrew | son of a bitch. You did. Siegel. |
| Everett | Uh our friends at Siegel. |
| Andrew | Are they friends? Well, there's |
| Everett | a lot of them, but yeah. They have uh they have released an update to the 1963 chronograph, which it this feels like a particularly unsegal thing |
| Andrew | to have done. So a a |
| Everett | few years 'cause you can only buy |
| Andrew | it in batches of ten thousand. |
| Everett | A few years back, um, or |
| Everett | perhaps was it last year? |
| Everett | I don't know, Siegel uh announced that they were going to be ceasing uh the availability of their fantastic ST190101? |
| Andrew | 190101s? Movement. |
| Everett | So previously, if you wanted to release a affordable mechanical chronograph, this was the go-to, right? You know |
| Andrew | everyone used it. You could get these in watches |
| Everett | that ranged from, you know, what 150 bucks even. I |
| Andrew | think the HKDs were like right there at 150 bucks, yeah. |
| Everett | That's right. And and so um you know, when they did that, there was another piece of news I think uh um m Richard Bence sort of worked out bank bank worked out some sort of um transactional deal with seagull where he was able to continue to get the movements but really like unless you were going to buy 10 000 of them you couldn't get the 1901 and and and which is obviously prohibitive for nearly every brand in existence, barring, you know, maybe maybe twenty companies, maybe ten companies, right? Yeah, I think |
| Andrew | their MOQ was wild. And |
| Everett | those are companies that likely that are unlikely to use this movement, right? Because |
| Andrew | they probably have their own. Um |
| Everett | so with that move, you know, you sort of wondered, okay, what is Seagull Wonder |
| Andrew | if they were like nationalizing Chinese watch manufacturing and made it available to Chinese companies in a different |
| Everett | way. That's possible. Yeah. Uh but but I think we have a little bit more context here, or at least we can maybe we can maybe draw some context, which is to say Siegel has just for the first time, as far as I know, did a comprehensive uh revamp of the famous military nineteen sixty-three chronograph to sort of uh modernize it, right? So going back to so this the original Siegel nineteen sixty-three traces its roots back to a nineteen sixties Chinese Air Force project. Uh it was it was a really, really cool watch then and it remains a really cool watch today but we have a full upgrade so it looks very similar and in fact if you were to see one of these you might not immediately know that this with was a new watch. However, they have made some real some real changes to this thing. All of the dials have been revamped. But the most important upgrade here lies in the movement. So |
| Andrew | It looks like Richard had |
| Andrew | some influence in their design. |
| Everett | We'll come back to that. Okay. So we'll come back to that. Hold that thought. So Siegel has uh equipped these new 1963s with a top grade, what they're calling a top grade ST1901, uh, in which they have enhanced the uh Code de Geneve uh which are gorgeous |
| Andrew | Geneva stripes they fancy have |
| Everett | um started hand polishing several of the components the bridges and each of the edges on the plates and bridges are individually finished which gives you that great sort of chamfery depth yeah we've got rhodium plating uh all around and handbrushed accents uh giving you great contrast i mean this movement has just instantly become |
| Andrew | it's not a 1901 it looks like |
| Andrew | some some hot shit coming out of Switzerland. |
| Everett | You know, being a sort of traditional mechanical chronograph, the ST9201 has always been visually interesting, but it's never been beautiful. Uh and I think that they have made this uh now a beautiful movement. |
| Andrew | I wonder if while with all of the extra attention, some of the reliability issues are resolved. |
| Everett | They are suggesting that with their new attention, with the hand finishing and fitment, that this will be a more reliable movement. |
| Andrew | Because that tha was really the only downfall of the nineteen oh one. |
| Everett | Yeah. And I don't I I don't know uh |
| Andrew | uh the number of failures like per hundred, but it's |
| Andrew | it's it was not a it was not a huge number. |
| Andrew | But it wasn't insignificant. I think Ed |
| Everett | told us, I think Ed told us, or maybe me one time, that it was depending on the batch, that it was between five and ten percent, which is |
| Andrew | a big number. A big number. But |
| Andrew | the the that that's a |
| Andrew | big number if it's coming from a single manufacturer, |
| Andrew | right? If it's coming all out of |
| Andrew | one facility. The problem with Segull is very |
| Andrew | much like Soviet or Russian |
| Andrew | produced watches, it's coming from a bunch of places. So you maybe you have one facility that that sends you a one percent failure rate, but you have another facility that's sending you a 10% failure rate. |
| Everett | Yeah. And that's you know, |
| Andrew | that's the real wrinkle in in kind of the Siegel ecosystem. |
| Everett | So we've also got refined uh brushing on the case itself. Um we've got a larger sapphire display back and uh a slightly redesigned case back structure, which gives a little slightly uh thinner proportions. Um, but uh we do now have official seagull dials on the dials, uh official seagull logos on the dials, and the dials are interesting. |
| Andrew | Can we can we take a brief break before we get to that? |
| Everett | Do it. It's |
| Andrew | on Kickstarter. Yeah, |
| Everett | interesting, right? I |
| Andrew | don't know what to think about that. Well, I know it'll fund, |
| Andrew | right? That that's not a question. A lot of things you see hit Kickstarter, you're like, oh, this |
| Andrew | is really interesting. I wonder if it'll get there. This will fund. I'm Siegel's not a young immature |
| Everett | it's it's already three grand yeah right |
| Andrew | um what do you think this |
| Andrew | was like a a marketing campaign like hey y'all want to see seagull watches |
| Everett | I you know I I don't know. I I mean I think that we've got uh I don't know if we have new management or different management, but we have a company that is being |
| Everett | managed, which is |
| Everett | what was probably not happening before, right? We've got a brand that's being managed. That's about the same. There it is. |
| Andrew | A brand.. Yep There there is a |
| Andrew | brand identity forming |
| Andrew | here. Whoa. Sure. Or perhaps |
| Everett | forming formed. Yeah. |
| Andrew | In a in a in the sense of a |
| Andrew | of a brand. Yeah. Right? Not a as as a supplier. |
| Everett | Um so we do have uh we do have a number of refinements that we've discussed, but uh I I think m most importantly for you at home we've got some we got some new dials so we have the there's that traditional cream dial is available to you if that's what you want you can get that but we've also got a limited edition meteorite dial, which is really good. And it comes on sort of a woven or a braided bracelet. And then we've got three they're not pastel. Maybe they're pastel. Three pastel dials. We've got |
| Andrew | three Easter colors. A gradient blue, |
| Everett | a gradient green, and a gradient pink. And Andrew Andrew was uh made a reference to these dials earlier when he said, you know, maybe Richard Bank had had some influence. I I don't know. But these are between the texture and the gradients and the colors, these are very studio underdogs. |
| Andrew | It sort of looks like he cut a deal. |
| Andrew | Uh was like, hey, let me design some dials for you, and and we partner up. Because uh |
| Everett | there's no indication of that in any of the materials I've read or anything else. |
| Andrew | This is just a visual observation |
| Andrew | in that I've seen those that saturation of color. |
| Everett | That particular saturation, yeah. Uh |
| Andrew | one other time. I |
| Andrew | mean I this is |
| Andrew | this is wild speculation. Uh but the the the colorways look well no two other times because there was that avocado watch that |
| Everett | it's unlikely to surprise you at home that all of these refinements and improvements do come at a cost. |
| Andrew | Yep. Yep. It's not 150 bucks anymore. |
| Everett | These are you can get these now on the Kingst Kickstarter campaign for 705 duck bucks or ducks. Um and then thereafter 839 USD will be the MSRP. Meteorite Limited Edition 1330, which okay. |
| Everett | Uh yeah. I mean that's I |
| Everett | can't complain. I I mean that's really just the right price for that watch. It |
| Andrew | is. But it's like honestly, it's it's kind |
| Andrew | of even the right price for the 1963s without the upgrades. |
| Everett | Yeah, you know, I I think the thing that has always been really cool about the 1963 is the price. It's like, oh, I can get this for that. And I wonder if I wonder if this changes the way people perceive the 1963 uh and and it's a double-edged sword, right? You know, a company like this, like now we're managing the brand, we are making refinements to the movement, we're doing the things, uh, we're a brand. Uh that can have a that can have a positive like it could, oh, you want more money? Well then I want it more. |
| Andrew | Right? But there's a psychological |
| Everett | impact. But it could also, you know, oh well, I was willing to pay three hundred and fifty bucks for a seagull. I'm not willing to pay eight hundred |
| Andrew | bucks. I don't know. I don't know what the world is |
| Everett | gonna say. I I I think the |
| Andrew | question is what do they do next? Right? I think this I think this is a palatable pivot depending on how they manage it. You know, if if if that's if this is it, if if just an upgraded |
| Andrew | nineteen sixty three is is |
| Andrew | the thing, and that's the Siegel brand, as we know it. Maybe not super excited. Yeah, I don't |
| Everett | know what I mean. I really know very little about Seagull's |
| Everett | manufacture. Um, do they have |
| Everett | other movements? Do they have a three hand? I I don't know. I genuinely don't know. Does Eagle make a an automatic three hand? They must. |
| Andrew | I'm sure they do. But I don't know. I can't |
| Everett | tell you. Because I don't know. I think |
| Andrew | it's the I I think what we are seeing is this brand who has been primarily a movement supplier |
| Everett | of a single movement, as far as I know. |
| Andrew | To To the Western |
| Andrew | world, right? Probably seeing significant proliferation through the Asian markets and into the Middle East, undoubtedly, and is like, hey, we we can make more money as a whole brand. Like we need to stop just giving away our shit and start doubling our our returns. I just I just |
| Everett | typed into Google, does Siegel the |
| Everett | plan is to type make |
| Andrew | more than one movement make an automatic three hand. |
| Everett | But it auto-completed. Tastes good. Does Seagull |
| Everett | taste good? I can't imagine that |
| Andrew | it would I can't either uh make |
| Everett | an auto lean three hand they |
| Andrew | live on garbage movement. |
| Everett | Um, and yes, Siegel makes several automatic three-hand movements, including the ST2130, a reliable 2824-2 clone, SD six,te SenT71, and ST25 calibers. These movements are widely used in their own branded watches. Unsurprising, as well as bought yeah. Oh yeah. So the answer is yes. |
| Andrew | I mean Siegel has to be enormous in China. I bet everyone has a seagull. |
| Everett | Well, I feel I feel like I bet |
| Andrew | they even make digital shit. This is a blind |
| Everett | spot. Uh I feel like this is a blind spot. Now I'm gonna have to rabbit hole. Oh yeah, look at that. They sure do make uh well, they sure do make uh an Orient Mako. Uh |
| Andrew | They they sure do. |
| Everett | Interesting. Okay, yeah. No, I mean they've a full on full on watch brand. I I say that um and instantly sort of am kicking myself because yes, of course. Yes, of course. Uh but yeah, they've got a bucketload of watches. Really. |
| Andrew | We're just not the target audience. A |
| Everett | billion trillion |
| Everett | watches. I mean some of these look fucking great too. Yeah. Oh, okay. More to come. More to come. Maybe Andrew and I are gonna think about some sequel watches. Uh Andrew, what's next? |
| Andrew | I'm not gonna think about SQL watches. Well, |
| Everett | maybe Everett will think about some single watches. |
| Andrew | Okay, I have a fun one. You were gonna say |
| Everett | we're done, but we're not. We've got so many watches we |
| Andrew | I have a fun one that I initially didn't like and then I |
| Andrew | looked at some more. Hold on. I'm gonna |
| Everett | try to guess. Here. Go ahead. |
| Andrew | The Rotto 40 year ceramic anniversary watch. That was my so this is a anniversary watch from Rotto |
| Andrew | s celebrating 40 years of working with |
| Andrew | ceramics. Um, and in the way of an anniversary watch |
| Andrew | that is a reenvisioning |
| Andrew | and an updating and modernizing of source material. I think they nailed it. They've made it a little bit bigger. So this is a rectangular case. It's not, it's not a big rectangle, but it's rectangular, it's not square. It's a 28 millimeter width, 398 length, 7.3 thick, yellow gold PVD on the case, fifty meters of water resistance. Uh bracelet is PvD coated steel and black ceramic. But is it so my initial look on this? Gold |
| Everett | PvD. Yeah, |
| Andrew | yeah, yeah. That's important. So this is a black and gold watch, which is why on my initial examination of it I was like. But the integration of this H-link bracelet with the framing being the gold PVD and the centers being black ceramic. It kind of has my number, man. This is sized perfectly. This is a really cool two-tone, and that it's not silver and gold. It's that it's like really rich, warm ceramic. Ceramic just |
| Andrew | does a thing in the way that it reflects light. So this |
| Andrew | black ceramic reflects the light in a really warm and complimentary way to this yellow |
| Andrew | gold PVD. And |
| Andrew | because it's just yellow gold PVD and it's not actual gold, it's only $2700. It's quartz movement, which I don't know anything about the R279 quartz movement. |
| Everett | No, me either. I |
| Andrew | I do struggle a little bit with $2700 |
| Andrew | for a quartz movement that I know nothing about, but perhaps if I learned something about it, I'd I could get down with like a high accuracy quartz. Um the size on this thing is phenomenal. It's like a I mean it's it's a watch from the 80s, so it looks like it's a watch from the |
| Andrew | 80s. Uh I love this in |
| Andrew | the way of a of an anniversary watch |
| Andrew | of like a really beautiful updating of |
| Andrew | a fun watch. I like it. |
| Everett | I wanna like it, but I don't |
| Andrew | I I hated it on first glance |
| Andrew | and then I looked at it some more and I was like, oh that's ceramic. I can fuck with |
| Everett | that. Yeah. The The gold PVD |
| Everett | combined with the quartz |
| Everett | movement, I feel like it's a tough sell for me. It makes |
| Andrew | it does make it a hard pill to swallow. If this was gold |
| Everett | PVD with a with a really cool super thin mechanical movement. I'm like, okay, well, let's let's think about this. If it was a quartz movement with a precious metal integration, I'm like then |
| Andrew | you're not at twenty seven hundred bucks. Maybe |
| Everett | not, but maybe you're maybe you're maybe you're at 4,000 or 5,000. I'm still like, okay, interesting. |
| Andrew | I'm a little bit more intrigued by a 5,000 it no, I I hear what you're |
| Everett | saying. Right? Like uh so uh but they |
| Andrew | tried to cut they tried to thread the |
| Andrew | needle and right. Like you can |
| Everett | find I I'm pretty sure I'm pretty sure that Timex makes a gold, a f you know, a a gold watch that is going to do almost an identical thing in terms of vibes, right? |
| Andrew | Oh, sure. This is a vibe novelty |
| Everett | watch. Just get the Timex that's gonna run you under 200 bucks, right? Because it's gonna give you the same fucking vibes. |
| Andrew | This vibe fucks. |
| Everett | Let me just let me just run a quick a quick Google search here. |
| Andrew | Look at the side by side of the OG versus the |
| Everett | Gold Timex tank. |
| Andrew | Yeah, no, I see I see what you're saying. The modernization is really phenomenal. |
| Andrew | They they've made some notable changes, but they're really just updates, |
| Andrew | right? Like it to bring it into this |
| Andrew | isn't this isn't a watch from the eighties. This is a watch inspired by the eighties. |
| Everett | Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. I I I hear you. I don't hate it. I I but it it's okay if you do. It it there's a vibe that you're getting with this watch that I think you get with that watch. |
| Andrew | Yeah, or that uh for |
| Everett | the for the record is a Timex automatic 1983 E-line reissue. |
| Andrew | What's the bull of a 299 bucks |
| Everett | on pre-order? IFL watches before. |
| Andrew | I haven't either, but it looks exactly like that. What's the bull of a IFL watches watch? The um |
| Everett | Oh, the TV watch. Yeah, it's |
| Andrew | it uh you get |
| Andrew | that in PvD and and you're getting a similar vibe, but you're not getting f ceramic throughout Super |
| Everett | Seville. Yeah, the Seville. Um Seville. |
| Andrew | Yeah, the Super Seville. Uh |
| Andrew | it it has a similar vibe for sure. |
| Everett | Yeah, and a bull of a not a cheap watch, right? That's a five hundred and eighty one, but it's uh you know it's an Accutron movement. It's |
| Andrew | yeah, and but that's the thing is like you're Or they're |
| Everett | not Accutron precisionist movement I I think is what they call it. |
| Andrew | Yeah, they're precisionists. But but you're not getting ceramic. |
| Andrew | There's a ton of ceramic in here. The the price is like I don't know, it's in the zone. It's way north |
| Andrew | of what I would ever pay for a rotto that |
| Andrew | like just kind of like vibes me. |
| Everett | Yeah. You know, but I I like it. I |
| Andrew | my initial impression was uh |
| Everett | pass. But then I |
| Andrew | got kind of excited about it. And I think it's a I think it's a fun anniversary watch too. |
| Everett | It it it is. I I'm having a hard time poo-pooing it. But |
| Andrew | you seem to be doing a good job though. Fine. |
| Everett | Fine. Fine. Um Okay. Uh how |
| Andrew | long have we been talking? Well, we have |
| Everett | been talking for at least an hour and a half, but we've been recording for 58 minutes. Okay. Um I I think there are two watches that we should that we certainly should talk about. Um so uh I'll just pull one of those and hope that you have the sense to pull the other. So Yemma has I I've been a huge fan. I'm on record of being a huge man huge fan. Huge man of the Yemma CMM in-house movement thing, right? They're doing a thing. |
| Andrew | Yes. And I'm a huge fan. They are |
| Everett | able to take this in-house movement, which is ultra thin and put it in these watches to just make you know you know yem a sort of uh it straddles uh yamma straddles in a way that very few brands straddle right yemma's a real straddler it's everything from thousand dollar thousand dollar solita bangers to you know twenty five three thousand twenty five hundred ish dollar in-house bangers. |
| Andrew | They're gonna drop a turbine soon. And |
| Everett | that's a tough I really do think that's a tough gap to to |
| Everett | straddle. To straddle. That's right. |
| Everett | Um, but Yemma does it. They have released in the last, so I haven't been following this, but they've got a 5X |
| Everett | series that they've announced, and in |
| Everett | that series, we've got this |
| Everett | Navy Graph Phantom, a Rally |
| Everett | Graph Alpine series mark two, a Silverstein Collaboration, and a Superman in Titanium turbion. Uh they didn't. Um |
| Andrew | didn't they do a wild they did a wild turbine last year though too, didn't they? |
| Everett | Their fifth act. Yeah, I think that was the Superman titanium. Uh their fifth act is a skin diver, which is perhaps my favorite of the Yemma's. Uh I I let's retract that. I I love it. Um, and this is a full loom cm.20 limited edition skin diver, which is a it's a for this is this is the CMM 20 skin diver, which is to say it's a 39 millimeter 12.2 thick skin diverse that minus the crystal is about nine mil 9.9 millimeters. So very, very thin. We've got Yemma's excellent CMM in-house micro rotor automatic movement, 300 meters of water resistance, and we've got full loom. So we've got loomed markers, uh loomed markings on a black dial, or excuse me, black bezel words tough. We have got a blue loomed dial and green loomed markers framed in black sitting on top of that blue loom, full loomed dial. Uh, this thing is fucking rad. |
| Everett | Yes. Stop it, |
| Everett | Yemma. They can't |
| Andrew | do anything wrong. You know, |
| Everett | so often I feel like full loom watches look a little funny in the daylight. They not so with this. |
| Andrew | No, because they contrasted the |
| Andrew | loom pads markers with |
| Andrew | the really crisp, almost arctic |
| Andrew | white. Yeah. No, no, not Arctic White. That looks like a |
| Andrew | fucking marshmallow. |
| Everett | It is really soft and puffy looking. Yeah. Not puffy. Soft supple. Ooh, shit. Yemma's supple straddle. |
| Andrew | Uh that looks like a marshmallow. That's marshmallow white. |
| Everett | This thing is great. Right? |
| Andrew | Because it's it's Arctic and and bright and crisp, but it has depth and like |
| Everett | and then you flip it over and you get that CMM like black. |
| Andrew | Uh yeah this is this is with |
| Everett | their a atomic layer deposition coding. |
| Andrew | This is maybe the best executed full loom dial strap combo that has ever full loomed. |
| Everett | I think the only thing I don't the only thing I'm not wild about is This is |
| Andrew | what I look like naked at night. It doesn't come on |
| Everett | the bracelet. That's a bummer. Uh you can only get it on this white s this white, unsurprisingly uh white strap that is loomed. |
| Andrew | That's why I say it's what I look like in |
| Andrew | in the darkness. Um yeah. |
| Everett | Uh what do these cost you? These are going to cost you two thousand two |
| Andrew | thousand seven hundred and twenty-five |
| Everett | dollars. Which is that's |
| Andrew | strict. Limited edition 400, |
| Everett | 2725 in-house movement, lots of loom. |
| Andrew | In-house micro rotor movement. |
| Everett | Yeah. Yeah, that's right. That's right. They're straddling. Look, they're straddling. |
| Andrew | They are they are carving out an interesting space in the market. Uh like the way other brands are forging ahead with technology uh yemma's forging ahead in their own way that's that's different |
| Everett | yeah but also uh |
| Andrew | no less impressive. You know, I remember |
| Everett | four or five years ago. I don't like |
| Andrew | the the two on the 12 o'clock. |
| Everett | Yeah, people don't like that. I don't know. You're not you're not the only one I've heard say that. Um |
| Andrew | I get why they had to do with like that coffin shape, but |
| Andrew | um I do I do recall |
| Everett | four or five years ago people kind of well Yama had a moment, right? Like a cusp like a quality control moment. And it sort of felt like, oh boy, here we go. That's a damaging thing to happen for a company, especially a company like Yama. Like we're French. We're kind of weird. We're not cheap. We're doing weird things, and we've got like markers falling off our dials. Uh, like, like that's hard for a brand. It here we are, though. Here we are, four or five years later. Well, I don't remember the timing on that exactly, but uh I think it was |
| Andrew | about five years. 'Cause it was it was when it was a I mean frankly it was when Yemma turned a corner. |
| Everett | Yeah, they were having their things. They |
| Andrew | were having their QC issues and they were like they they reached that that crossroad it was |
| Everett | part of that process right we can we can either |
| Andrew | fix this or not and they chose to fix it I |
| Everett | I I I actually I would characterize that differently. I think that that was a byproduct of Yemma fixing it. Like they were like, let's do this. Let's do a brand. Let's do let's go harden the paint. And there's kind of you can't you can't make an omelet as they, say. Uh and so I I think that that was part of the process. But it w it is a hard thing for a brand to overcome a reputation like that. Like, especially in uh like days of Reddit, like you've got one fucking marker falling off your dial. People remember that shit. |
| Andrew | Everyone knows it. Way worse than the forums. |
| Everett | And uh I'm gonna say I think Yemma's I think Yemma's put that behind them. And and for for those like to for the minority that isn't able to get past that, like you like |
| Andrew | the Jack Mason GMT. Which means you can get past it. |
| Everett | A small minority. It's such a small minority. Yemma's like they've coming out with a twenty twenty-seven hundred dollar watch and people are like, Yeah, this is this fucks. |
| Andrew | Yes. Yeah. There they're no |
| Andrew | notes. Okay, so I |
| Everett | I'm gonna try to like insert the next watch into your brain. But you're an |
| Everett | independent man with agency. So I'm just gonna I'm sending thoughts your way. We have one more watch, Andrew, and if you fuck it up. |
| Everett | Uh okay. |
| Andrew | Can we talk about the new tag hoir? Damn it, |
| Andrew | that's not the okay, good. Uh, cause we must |
| Everett | talk about the Hamilton khaki field mechanical |
| Andrew | 36. Also, not that one. Uh but let's |
| Everett | we can talk about it. So I uh uh the tag warrior okay. Can we just can we |
| Andrew | we have a new aqua racer? It's can we speedrun |
| Everett | those? I I'm intrigued |
| Andrew | by the Fap D. |
| Everett | Okay. What do you want me to talk about? Carry on. Uh uh I I think I really like to talk about the Ferropilot Titanium Collection. |
| Andrew | I like it. I I don't know. I I like |
| Everett | we can talk about as many watches as we can go all night. It is |
| Andrew | our show. Uh we do run this thing. I I think the last like three years fairer moving away from their uh really |
| Everett | what the fuck are you talking about? I I pulled this up and I was like, Andrew's gonna be so happy. |
| Andrew | I love this dial, the brown dial, but I think Farer |
| Andrew | has they've they've chosen a |
| Andrew | path of subtlety when |
| Andrew | they were thriving in their |
| Andrew | flamboyancy of color. I love it. That was a beautiful |
| Everett | story. It was fantastic. Uh |
| Andrew | I I s love these watches. I love this new the what's four new colorways? |
| Everett | Uh three new colorways. Yeah. But I think four new releases. So |
| Andrew | and they're all in titanium and they're fucking bangers |
| Everett | we've got the Curtis which is sort of uh a petrol |
| Everett | gray blue thing we've got the Barnwell which |
| Everett | is brown and like sort of a time like type B sort of uh and it's got like a light blue and orange, light blue re hot orange hands. And then we've got the Hewlett, which is more of like a n traditional navy |
| Everett | blue with white and it's got |
| Everett | light blue accents. And and |
| Andrew | which one's the one with the actual Arabic? |
| Everett | And then Curse Cur the Curtis, which is that petrol blue um comes in an Eastern Arabic limited edition. |
| Andrew | That's the word Eastern Arabic. Eastern actual Arabic. |
| Everett | So I I I mean look look. These are all titanium. Both the Curtis and the Barnwall have. Are they PVD? What what's the coating on the cases? |
| Andrew | It has to be PVD because they're titanium. |
| Everett | Um it's a 40 millimeter grade two titanium compact lugs, 30 43 lug to lug. So 40 millimeter case with a 43 lug to lug. Uh 10-9 thick. Uh these things are fantastic. Faraday cage for magnetism. Um SW300-1, which is great in their |
| Andrew | fair. That's right. Upgraded movement. |
| Everett | That's right. These are these are hot |
| Andrew | fire. Right. Ferrer also does nothing |
| Andrew | coin edge on their smooth bezels, which is |
| Everett | a move. It's a move. I like it though. |
| Andrew | It's a really it's tiny. It it can't be more than a quarter of a millimeter of coin edge because there's a great bevel leading down to it. |
| Everett | It's it's superfluous in a way that I really like. |
| Andrew | Oh, I'm for it. I'm I'm the I like everything about this |
| Andrew | watch. I I just I kinda miss |
| Everett | You just wish it was like puke green, zodiac, bullshit. |
| Andrew | Not quite zodiac, because Ferrer was never |
| Andrew | in the Zodiac world of colorways, but they were a little bit more uh pronounced, right? And you see pictures of them, you're like, oh, it's really cool, and then you see them in the metal and you're like, oh man, I wonder how many of these I can carry while I run. |
| Andrew | Uh and and but th this is this is |
| Andrew | a This is a move by Ferrer. It's well executed. I think dropping these in titanium, and these are still uh price-wise, fifteen hund buredcks. You know, these are like really beautiful, really well designed, great technology thrown into them. You didn't even mention the wild loom minute track on the Barnwell or on the Curtis. Yeah, on the Curtis. |
| Everett | No great. Uh |
| Andrew | it's amazing. It it requires no other loom on this dial to fully illuminate the dial, just from the density of the loom in the minute track. But then still all the hour markers and the hands are packed full with uh uh superluminou I'm sure. |
| Everett | Yeah they well they've yeah they've got uh what is it loom blocks they've got loom block numerals loom |
| Everett | block, indicators and, then |
| Everett | superluminova in the hands. Yeah. |
| Andrew | This is kind of a perfect field watch in |
| Andrew | all of its variations. Well, |
| Everett | it's a pilot's watch, right? Which I think are arguably the pilot's watch is the perfect field watch. |
| Andrew | Yeah. Hundred meters of water resistance on |
| Everett | these. Yeah. Terrific onion crown. |
| Andrew | Big old like very IWC onion-y, big old bitch crown. |
| Everett | But but not IDFC Farrer. |
| Andrew | Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. I mean these are phenomenal. |
| Andrew | It's not a FAPD, but you |
| Everett | know. Um Um Andrew, Andrew, Andrew, Andrew, Andrew, Andrew. Do you have any other watches that you want to talk about? |
| Andrew | No, I close the links. Take us, take us |
| Everett | away, man. Other things, what do you got? |
| Andrew | Okay. I have a good other |
| Andrew | thing. I was listening to stuff you should know because I was on an airplane, so I downloaded a bunch of podcasts because I was flu |
| Everett | to Spokane, yeah. I guess you do. Yeah, it's an eight-hour |
| Andrew | drive or a similar length amount of travel time between airports and airplanes. Um so we flew. Uh but before flying, I was listening to a stuff you should know about Operation Mince Meat. If you're not familiar with Operation Mincemeat, it is a. There's apparently a movie, and I haven't seen it. It's from 2021, 2022, I don't recall exactly when. But basically it was a uh clandestine operation to trick the Germans into thinking |
| Andrew | that Allied forces were going to |
| Andrew | be invading Sicily and not or Sardinia and not Greece. Or wherever the fuck we invaded. Oh yes, I've |
| Everett | seen this. Uh I haven't. I'm gonna watch |
| Andrew | it tonight. Um, but anyway, |
| Andrew | during this stuff you should know, they were talking |
| Andrew | about all of these people who were involved in this operation. Who were then really famous authors? I don't know, Ian Fleming, Rald. Dahl |
| Andrew | I don't know those guys. Okay, me either. |
| Everett | They were both involved? In |
| Andrew | the periphery. Huh. Right? So they're part of it because they were both uh British intelligence operators during World War II. |
| Everett | So one of the things like |
| Andrew | I don't know I I don't know exactly how it got me there, but I heard an ad for a limited run podcast about Rald Dahl. And it's called |
| Everett | Rald Dahl's British. |
| Andrew | Yes. Fine. |
| Andrew | The secret world of Rald doll. This guy. Royal Air Force |
| Everett | crashed a bunch of planes. Didn't matter that he |
| Andrew | was giant. He liked in the planes that he was learning |
| Andrew | to fly in, his head was actually above the windscreen. He |
| Everett | was a big fellow. He was a big old fella. |
| Andrew | So his head was actually over the windscreen. So he's just eating all of the air, unlike all the other little fellas who are, you know, using the windscreen |
| Everett | after several crashes and |
| Andrew | significant incidents in the Royal Air Force became British intelligence. And to put it politely, fucked his way through the uh rich and famous and important political wives of American politicians. |
| Everett | Get it all though. During World War II. |
| Everett | Alright, I see you. As his |
| Andrew | mission to the crown. Let me tell you a story about a girl named Matilda. So so this podcast |
| Andrew | is this really interesting |
| Andrew | kind of dark Did you say to put it |
| Everett | politely? Yeah. There are more polite ways to say that. Carry |
| Andrew | on. That's as polite as I can put it. Uh This is the coolest podcast ever. Right? Because we all think of who |
| Everett | makes it. It is from iHeart. It's |
| Andrew | uh uh iHeart Podcasts, |
| Andrew | uh Imagine Radio, iHeart Media. Uh the guy I I will say there's something grating about the guy who's who who narrates it. Aaron Tracy. |
| Andrew | Yeah. I don't super dig |
| Andrew | his voice. But I love the story he's telling. Uh, I'm several episodes into it. It's one of the most fascinating bio biographical uh things I've ever listened to. Because we we have this image of Raw Dahl as this author, right, who wrote James and the Giant Peach and Matilda these like kind of weird dark things. Uh and now it kind of makes sense like how we got there. Uh it has been fascinating. And then and totally shattered. |
| Everett | How many episodes? Oh shoot. How |
| Andrew | many episodes? I don't know, have to look. I think I'm five in. |
| Everett | How many episodes is it? Eight, |
| Andrew | ten, maybe? Jesus, isn't that crazy |
| Everett | when you are like, how can this subject matter fill this much space and keep me interested. |
| Andrew | There's ten. Ten a thirty-ish minute episodes. And |
| Everett | they've been good. Uh I am |
| Andrew | through five. And yes, they are good. The I think the most interesting part is not um the the most interesting part is all of the cookie jars his hands were in. Right? He he made television with Hitchcock and had a failed movie with Walt Disney. Uh it like new Ian Fleming. The like the people that this guy rubbed elbows with are exactly the people you'd expect he rubbed elbows elbows with, right? Because of who he is now in our memory. Yeah. But when he's rubbing elbows with them, he's actually not there yet. Yeah, yeah, yeah. |
| Everett | That's that's cool. And and obviously, |
| Everett | you know, n you know, uh I think in |
| Andrew | our Zai Geist right sort of author of these books, but that's it's cool that there's another story of that. It's all |
| Andrew | like the author of these books. It spoiler, |
| Andrew | that wasn't really his goal. Fella wanted to be a screenwriter. Interesting. Uh and like eventually got to where he is kind of by like just perpetual failure. It's a fascinating biodoc. Well, |
| Everett | you you've convinced me I'.m gonna listen to it. |
| Andrew | Hit it like it's and they're short, right? If you can get past his voice, uh the the the subject matter alone is super captivating. Uh it makes it difficult to work while listening to it. You |
| Everett | know, I once read a book by |
| Andrew | John McPhee who is a fantastic, |
| Everett | but called The Founding Fish. Uh it's about the American Shad. And it was like uh uh uh I I don't generally I don't generally read nonfiction. I I'm I'm sort of a fiction guy. Uh in |
| Andrew | time. I'm I'm on record. Uh |
| Everett | but narrative narrative nonfiction, every once in a while, will grab me. You know, I think Krakow has done that a number of times, but John McPhee is another guy. Uh, but this it was this, it it reminds me of the founding fish, right? Because it's like such a banal subject matter that you're like, how could you listen to 10 episodes of this? How could you read an entire book about the American Chad? But it was like it I'm telling you, that's not my other thing for the night, but The Founding Fish by John McPhee. |
| Andrew | Yeah. Turns out this guy's wildly |
| Andrew | fascinating. Good other thing. That is a good |
| Everett | one. You said I've got a good other thing, and I was skeptical. |
| Andrew | You always are. I know. Well, |
| Everett | I've got a good other thing, Andrew. No, |
| Andrew | I don't. I do. Do we do |
| Everett | have a good other thing? I've got so uh I've got uh another thing that reminds me of Julie Andrews singing favorite things, or perhaps John Coltrane playing favorite things on a saxophone, which is to say this is instantly one of my favorite things. I love things, Andrew. You know this about me. |
| Andrew | We all do. I think that's |
| Everett | right. I don't think everybody in the world does, but I think by and large, the people listening |
| Everett | to us talk an hour and 20 minutes |
| Everett | in, love things. So so and and he'd |
| Andrew | be doing this even if he didn't have an audience to to tell people about his things. |
| Everett | That's true. The whole reason we do this show is |
| Andrew | for Everett's things. I I got a thing. I |
| Everett | uh that's that not's not that's not fair and it's also not untrue. Uh I got a thing and it has instantly become one of my favorite things. Um it's also just uh I I'm gonna admit this on the front end and we're gonna talk about it anymore. It's a thing that I don't really need. Um weird. Uh I recently uh well I I've been I've been exploring small engine repair. And in his |
| Andrew | no small engines and it's home to repair. |
| Everett | Not true. Uh in that in that I I kind of got fascinated by ratchets, ratcheting socket wrenches. Um it it's something that I've always taken for granted before. Uh uh, because I've always had a I've always always thought of ratchet. Yeahah, ye. And I've had like good ones and I've had bad ones. And by good ones, I mean like I've had like the you know the nicer craftsman one or whatever, right? Um but I discovered recently, I don't know if it was on purpose or by chance, that there is a world of high-end ratcheting wrenches. And I was like you don't say. |
| Andrew | So long, penny cash. |
| Everett | Um oh man. So I got |
| Everett | what I think is perhaps the pinnacle |
| Everett | or about the pinnacle of ratcheting wrenches in my hands right now. |
| Andrew | It's happening. You can hear it. Specifically, |
| Everett | this is a quarter inch drive standard length, which is to say what, six inches. I'd |
| Andrew | call that 14. Standard. |
| Everett | Standard length uh Coken Z socket wrench. And the second I got this out of its lovely Japanese made box with a fantastically uh retro logo and box and packaging. This is not like Apple packaging, right? You know, when you get like a an iPhone and it's in these super tight boxes. No, this comes in a cardboard box that's oversized and this thing's just kind of sliding around in it. |
| Andrew | Love it. And then you pull this thing out, and |
| Everett | it is made of fantastic, highly polished steel. And every single inch of this thing, every single millimeter of this thing has been meticulously machined. And I was like, oh boy. |
| Everett | I will cherish this thing for the |
| Everett | rest of my life. On their website, |
| Andrew | due to overwhelming demand, Z series ratchets may have extended lead times just to cosign on what you're if |
| Everett | you know anything about ratchets you uh |
| Everett | well if you know a |
| Everett | little bit more than the average person about ratchet wrenches you know that there is a thing called uh there is a thing called oh my gosh, and I'm just blanking on the word that we said just a second ago, backtrack, um that is it's essentially the force that is required to overcome the ratchet mechanism, right? So you only |
| Andrew | need two teeth. You've got the work that's why it feels so good. |
| Everett | The work mechanism, and then you've got the ratcheting side. So the work mechanism, it it grabs and you turn and it's grabbed and it's grabbed and it's grabbed. And then it and then on the release, it spins freely. But it's a ratchet. So with a uh a lower tooth count, perhaps, you know, a 20-tooth or a 17-tooth. Um that that force might this is |
| Andrew | gonna unscrew what you're ratcheting down. |
| Everett | That's right. That's right. This is a 72 |
| Everett | tooth dual paw and it just golly Andrew. Oh my gosh. |
| Andrew | It's it's if the Cartier Santos made a bezel a rotating bezel. |
| Everett | That's right. And this thing is Japanese made, which I I think it is i |
| Everett | in in sort of high-end tool |
| Everett | circles. The Japanese right now are you know, it used to be perhaps the Americans, and and then I think at some point the Germans were like, no, no, it's us. The the Japanese are right in there in terms of making the best tools on earth. And and and Taiwan, unsurprisingly, is is making a play, but they're definitely they're owning the top of the middle. |
| Everett | Well, Japanese are is |
| Andrew | so about the user experience. |
| Everett | That's right. In conjunction with functionality. |
| Andrew | American manufacturing is pure functionality. Right. German is like a perfect |
| Everett | line linesman. Yes. |
| Andrew | German manufacturing is pure functionality. I don't care if this hurts you, it's gonna do it the best. Right. Japanese manufacturing is like you're gonna do it really, really good. And it's gonna feel really, really good. |
| Everett | Yeah. Yeah. This is one of the |
| Everett | sexiest things I own and I am going to buy a Hayabusa and just wrench on it constantly. Maybe uh maybe actually like a Royal Enfield or something I can afford. Um God, I fucking love it, dude. |
| Andrew | It's perfect because nobody needs a twelve inch shank ratchet. Unless you're like |
| Everett | sure you do, right? If you're doing auto repair, this is a tiny, this is a quarterch-in drive, it's a six-inch, quarter-inch drive ratchet. So this |
| Andrew | is the rat that I would need. I don't |
| Andrew | recall the last time I would have needed a ratchet |
| Andrew | bigger than that. This is good for confined spaces. |
| Everett | I if you're working, if you're working on a 72 Ford, uh, you're probably gonna want ⅜ or half and/or half inch, a little bit more length. But this is uh I I mean for for around-the-house DIY stuff, this is an invaluable tool. I don't remember what I spent on it. A hundred. |
| Andrew | In the neighborhood, yeah. Ish. I'm I'm just |
| Everett | gonna link to the website. And then I got it, and then I was like, oh, I need to get all the accoutrement. I got like the sp the finger spinner and I got the universal ball uh extension and I got a couple extensions. Is |
| Andrew | the the best universal |
| Everett | like flexible ball head yeah |
| Andrew | I think I've ever felt uh normally with |
| Everett | with universal joint uh extensions they they come with like |
| Andrew | they're multi axis. But like it's interlocked. This is like a this is a a |
| Everett | It's a ball that's seated captive. |
| Andrew | It's like your hip bone. That's right. That's right. |
| Everett | And it's fun phenomenal. And and then the sockets themselves are just a thing of beauty. I mean, look at it's a socket, right? Who cares? Like you could get a chrome craftsman or probably something even less money than that, or a tecton from Taiwan, or something. This |
| Andrew | isn't that. This isn't that. These |
| Everett | things are just a thing. It's art, right? And and it's almost too you know, I I've I've not really had anything qu I've only had this stuff for a couple weeks and so I haven't done |
| Everett | any w actual work with them. And I'm |
| Everett | I'm sort of like, oh, okay, so when I do this, do I use that or do I use the cheap ones? I I I I'm having a little bit of like I don't treat this. Is a tool. |
| Andrew | These aren't these aren't like safe babies. |
| Everett | It it's a tool, right? And I don't want them to be safe babies, but then I'm also like, well, I don't want to fucking dig around in the |
| Everett | back of the dryer with this thing. |
| Everett | But maybe I do. I don't know. You definitely do. Okay, I'll figure it out. I'll figure it out. Just give me some time, okay? |
| Andrew | You definitely do. Andrew, anything else |
| Everett | you want to add before we get going? No, I'm |
| Andrew | out of things. Hey folks, thanks for joining us |
| Everett | for this episode of 40 and 20, the WatchClicker Podcast. Uh do me a favor, go to our website, watchclicker.com. It m it may have a WordPress issue, but we'll fix that. Uh if you want to follow us on social media, you can do so on Instagram at 40 and 20 or at at 40 and 20 underscore watch clicker or at watchclicker. If you want to support us and oh boy, we hope Patreon is where we get the money that we use to keep this thing going. And if people don't support us, we won't keep going. |
| Andrew | The WordPress will keep failing. |
| Everett | And don't forget to tune back in next Tuesday for another hour of watches, Food Drinks, Life, and other Thanks for Life. Bye-bye. |