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Legacy Watch Brands Have a Great Week (377)

Published on Mon, 19 Jan 2026 22:01:30 -0800

Synopsis

Andrew and Everett discuss the latest watch releases from LVMH Watch Week and other brands. Major highlights include TAG Heuer's new 41mm Glass Box chronographs and the Carrera Seafarer Chronograph with tide complications, Hamilton's Resident Evil collaboration watches and new Intramatic Chronograph colorways, Zenith's Defy Revival A364 from 1969, and Omega's new panda dial Speedmaster Professionals in steel and moonshine gold. They also cover releases from smaller brands like Yema's bronze Skin Diver, Corona Tokyo's meteorite dial watch, and VPC's ultra-thin Type 39 VM diver. The hosts share their thoughts on design choices, pricing, and which releases excite them most, with particular enthusiasm for TAG Heuer's Seafarer and the Gerald Genta time-only pieces.

Transcript

Speaker
Andrew Hello, fellow watch lovers, nerds, enthusiasts, or however you identify. You're listening to 40 and 20, the WatchClicker podcast with your hosts, Andrew and my good friend Everett. Here, we talk about watches, food, drinks, life, and other things we like. Everett, how are you? I'm good. I'm good. I don't have anything super duper to report. Um we just watched a really good college football national championship game. National championship game just ended. Miami played Indiana really well. Uh and ultimately did not win. Yeah. So again, we can say at least we lost to the national champions. Yeah. Uh that's not a good feeling. Yeah, no. But at least we can say. How are you doing, Andrew? Uh I'm good. I I don't know, it's a it's a weird day. Like I I didn't I didn't work a whole day 'cause I'm like, eh, it's a holiday. I got to work, really no one was there. It's the national championship day. So I'm like, I'll just go home. I made some burnt ends. They turned out pretty good. Uh I made burnt ends with chuck roast, which I haven't done before. And they're notably different than brisket burnt ends or like really any other variety of meat burnt ends. Unsurprisingly. Um but when they're fresh and hot, man, they are a very acceptable uh uh replacement. Once they've cooled down, uh I think I don't I actually don't know the science behind why they are, but they get tough once they've cooled. Um, so I don't I don't understand the science there. But uh they turned out good, they were really yummy. I had them on top of a Caesar salad, uh, which was yummy. Um, other than that, you know, just chugging along. I like it. Mm-hmm. I like it. Yeah. Um Oh, I had a weird thing happen. Uh I ordered some things from Amazon this uh this weekend, yesterday, in fact. Uh and today I got shipment notifications. And immediately following my shipment notification, I got an unable to ship notification. Was it what did it say? It said um problem during shipping, which I've never seen before. Um, and upon further digging, it's because the item that I purchased broke like in the intervening period between leaving the warehouse and actually getting on its shipping truck. And it was mineral oil, so So it was noticeable, I'm sure. Yeah. And it got returned and immediately uh refunded, not replaced. So I have to order it again. Oh, interesting. Rather than them just being like, Oh yeah, shit. Okay. We'll send you a new one. They must have like uh left hand, right hand separation there for some reason. Yeah. It was uh so an interesting um but it was it was a weird email to get. I was like, what is like am I gonna get a new one? What's what's happening here? Why are are why you unable to ship? Uh so yeah, uh for those of you who don't know, problem during shipping means that they broke it. Mm-hmm. And they're sorry. But you're not gonna get a new one. You have to order it. Yeah. Again. Cause I already got my refund. It says uh advanced refund issued. They're like just give things up as money back. Yeah, like let them figure out what to do with it. Yeah. Order a new one or don't. But you don't have to pay for that one. That one's on us. It's funny. Um yeah. I guess that makes sense. Well, I would think that they would it would get returned to warehouse or like unshippable and they would just rapid fire your next like a replacement. I ordered it once. I want it. I don't care if you broke it. I I still I st I want a not broken one. Why do I have to order it again? So I uh I ordered I can't remember what it was I actually ordered, but instead of the thing I ordered, I got this Christmas ornament. Nice. Oh no, I know what it was. It was a brata encore grinder. This is years ago. I ordered it from Amazon. I got a Christmas ornament that came in. That's different. Yeah. And I was like, uh And the lucky person who ordered the ornament. And uh well, no. So when I looked up the product number for the Christmas ornament, it had been discontinued for like four years. That's fun. So I think what happened, it was like at the holiday season. I think what happened is that someone from shipping had like my parcel got lost and so they took a different thing and put it in a box and put my shipping label on it and and shipped it. Or they they stole it from themselves, right? But it was someone at the factory was like, I don't know what to uh I'm just gonna take this thing and put it in a box and send it. And so then when I tried to return it, I said, hey, I ordered this and you guys gave me this. And they said, okay, well, go ahead and return your grinder and we'll issue a replacement. And I was like, well, I don't have a grinder. I have this Christmas ornament. And they're like, oh yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. I finally get someone, you know, this is get someone on the phone. And they're like, oh yeah, yeah, I remember. Okay. Yeah. So go ahead and return the Christmas ornament. And as soon as they're able to make your return to confirm that what you returned is the same thing as what you ordered, then we'll issue a new one. And I'm like, well, what the fuck on that's not possible because the thing that i'm returning and he's like oh yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah no no i remember okay so it's not gonna work but i'll put a note in the file so go ahead and return it and when they get it it',s not gonna be right and they're gonna deny it, but there'll be a note in there. So maybe they'll catch it. And it took like three months to get my grinder. Which is so weird because now if you have an issue with Amazon, they're like, fuck it, whatever. Just keep the thing we sent you, we'll send you a new one. Yeah, that was the that was the oh and and then they wound up so finally finally we figured this out and it didn't take three months to get it figured out. So they get me a new grinder, I return the Christmas ornament. And like several months later, they issue like they pull they claw back the refund. That's what it was. They clawed back the refund and said, you returned a Christmas ornament instead of returning There's supposed to be a note in the file. Yeah, it was awesome. Uh lots of fun. Yeah. So it I think just having them refund the money immediately is like which is so I and you know all my Amazon my Amazon experiences have been similar to that. I had a friend who ordered a uh mastering the art of French cooking, the two book set. And they sent me a picture of the damaged like cardboard sleeve that the two books come in. And they're like, what up, bitch? Got it for free. Oh nice. Like, wait. It can't that's that's how book sleeves look. Like, nope, Amazon just said whatever it's damaged, you can keep it. Here's your refund. Cool. Like that,'s not how my life works with Amazon. What is this trash? I fight with Amazon for months over Christmas ornaments. Um, yeah. In any event, we're not here to talk about Amazon shipping or burnt ends, although those are good things to talk about. Rather, we're here to talk about watches. And I'm wondering if you would just as once like to lead us off. No. Okay. Uh I I would. I have a thing that I'd like to talk about. Um but I don't really know where I'm gonna start with just a a a a notable thing. So Hamilton does a ton of um I collaborations, promotional things. I don't really know how to define this. So Hamilton has done a uh Resident Evil Requiem Limited Editions and we've talked about several Resident or a several several Hamilton limited editions for whether it be um video game releases or movies. And I think I think this one's my favorite. This is the first one that I'm not like. Ugh. Why'd you get so lazy? So what we have here are two versions. Oh boy, skip right past it. Uh two versions of the khaki field auto chrono coming out at 2175 money, so like kind of in the zone. Um the first is a all black DLC case kind of like a a we have 12 and a six o'clock chronograph register and a and a kind of wing towards the nine o'clock. That one it's whatever. I don't really care so much about that one. The other is perhaps my first and most favorite uh guilt version of a Hamilton that I've ever seen. We have on the uh chapter ring, a gold chapter ring with cut-in indices, gold markers on uh excuse me, gold font on the bezel, gold hands. This is really good. Golden Noir is what they're calling it. Uh these are gonna come out on February twenty-seventh. Uh they're limited edition. I don't see uh number on it where are they yeah I don't see number I wonder if they're just like a limited of order availability. Do you see a number? No. Okay. Because who cares? It's Hamilton, so it's not limited. It's just a short run of it. Uh it's good. It's fun. It's my first uh Hamilton limited edition with like a media entity that I don't hate. Yeah, I don't like 'em. I like the guilt one. I don't care about the black. They're expensive. Um yeah, I think it's weird. I think these are weird. You know that Call of Duty Pan Europe is the is the gold one. It's 'cause not Oh, both limited to two thousand. Uh you know, when that Call of Duty one came out, I was like, Yeah. It's just well, it's like, what are we doing here? But these I actually just don't like. Oh, I like this pan Europe. Yeah, so 1475 for the pan Europe and the khaki field autocrono is twenty-one seventy-five. Uh I think these are weird, man. I like the I like the guilt one. Okay. And in the way of media releases, the these are a lot better thought out than just a khaki field with a different strap. Yeah, no, that's true. Um so uh there's no way to avoid it today really was the first day of LVMH watch week. Mm-hmm. Is it? Yeah, we had a lot happening this week. And so there's gonna be a whole bunch of LVMH releases. I for myself have well several. And Andrew, you've got you've got a couple. A couple as well. So I'm gonna start off with I I think it makes sense if we kind of put these together, but we've got a an upsized taghoyer glass box in three different colors ways, but also the Taghoyer Carrera Seafarer Chronograph. Um, both of these have been dropped by Tag, which I think is just gonna have a killer LVMH watch week. That's that's all I can figure. So to start with, um the glass box has always been 39. It is now 41 with the same thickness, which means it's gonna have, for my take, slightly improved, um slightly improved proportions as it wears on the wrist. Um this is uh this is an interesting move by Tag because you know the historically sort of glass box style chronographs would have been small, thirty five, thirty six, thirty-seven. So tag's kind of going bigger with these very historically shaped watches. I think it's a good move. And I think this is a really attractive watch. And I don't mean the glass box, because of course that's true, but I think a 41 millimeter glass box is really attractive. Um because they did color so well on this. This like red uh this black dial with red accents, the the red ring outside of the tachyometer, but still inside of that big ass like domed crystal does such a fun thing yeah that is like I I just I want more of it it almost looks like a uh like a a red O ring that's sealing that that crystal into the case. I I I I see exactly what you're saying, and I I agree with you and I like that. There is a black dial that Andrews just described. There's a teal dial and a blue dial. The teal dial and blue dial are more monochrome. Pass on both of those sunbursty things. Um, I think they're really great. And I just think this is a fun, I think this is a good addition for tag. I think this is despite being kind of big, I think this is just a big watch. I think it's a fun addition. So 41 millimeters by 478 long, which is a great size, 1417 thick, which includes the crystal, and that's the same thickness as the OG glass box or the 39 glass box. Um, and you know, outside of that, this is a same movement watch, it's the TH201 with a removed date on these. Um yeah, I think it's just great. I think it is it's a good diversifying move by tech but these are these are kind of boring they're not boring they're just this isn't most exciting so the second release i'm getting a twofer here well and just and just to be clear we we were invited to the lvmh watch week but we just we just couldn't make it work. They tag really wanted us to cover their watches in person and went unfortunately we just couldn't cover it. And if they had a hundred percent true of that. Maybe we would have been able to make the time. So the second release that I want to talk about is more interesting. This is the Carrera Seafarer Chronograph. This is a callback to the seafarer, Abercrombie Seafarer watches from the 40s or 50s. Hodinky did a Seafarer Limited Edition release with tag last year. It was black dialed. And I didn't love it. I didn't love that blacked out. Although it was definitely a sexy watch. It felt like they were kind of mixing old with new in a way that I didn't like. Here we've got a sort of what I think is a more traditional metallic tan dialed version of the seafarer, uh, which is just absolutely great. So these were made, these were um very early tide graph or or tide informing, tide complication watches that were made at the request of Abercrombie. Um and and then with the design expertise of Jack Hoyer. What we have is a glass box design, 39 millimeter glass box design watch with a tide indicator complication. Um, these are TH204 automatic watches, and this is in the permanent collection now, which is kind of crazy. Um oh excuse me, these are 42 millimeter watches, Andrew. Yeah, they're not they're not small. I was 486 by 144. Um but what's really so the really cool thing about this, well, there's a couple cool things about this watch. So one, the dial is great. Two, uh, it's cool to have a tie graph complication. Three, the colors on these are the colors on this is just phenomenal. It's the best execution of Fotina that has ever been done. Yeah, and I don't even know if it's a Fotina. It's this champagne dial that isn't bright or metallic-y. It looks like it was perhaps cream once, but it has just kind of like weathered a little bit. But the real magic is in its guilt markers. Right. They didn't Fotina the markers. They like just kind of softened the the dial color and they softened and kind of faded this turquoise and orange that's on the sub-dials to be not so like lustrous. Yeah. Uh it's phenomen this looks like it's from the 40s. My favorite part of this watch is besides the colors and besides exactly what you're talking about, just the spirit of it is this pusher, this tide pusher at nine o'clock is just a sexy, sexy thing. So um I'm a huge fan of this watch. I think it's terrific. It's not inexpensive. This is a 8300 Swiss franc watch, which probably translates to roughly 9,000 US dollars. Um, great bracelet, very attractive watch. Hoyer is back making enthusiast watches for sure at this point. And I'm like, yeah, let's do it, tag. Thanks for this. The one thing I I I have questions about is I wonder how that end length or end length length uh once it's settled onto the wrist. Cause that I've been muted in mid-sentence. Is that that's how offensive when I'm saying is. Sorry about that, Henry. You were really pissing me off though. It's like a quarter millimeter shorter than the lugs. So when when that bracelet wraps around your wrist, I'm wondering if you're gonna get a an interesting like lug overhang. Yeah, I don't know. I don't know. I mean, I think this is pretty typical construction for it looks drastic. Yeah, and it's more and certainly it's more than a half a millimeter. I think it's probably two millimeters, what you're talking about. So I don't know, Andrew. I don't I don't think it's a big deal, but something to look out for for sure if you're buying one of these. I'm just I just wonder. And there's and I don't see any pictures of it. Uh I guess that's one on the wrist. The the the height of the links seems to cover it in this one photograph. Well and these are boxed at the bottom. So it the the lugs look like it continues down in a sharp angle, but it's not. It's it's boxed. So um I it's a really good looking bracelet though. Yeah, I I think I think these are terrific. Um what's next? I'm a lot of things. You are not. That is not true. Uh I have uh this is a a brand that we have not ever talked about. Uh Maurice de Moriak and Racquet kicks off with the 2026 new tennis inspired Rally Master. And I saw this watch and I was like, this is maybe the coolest tennis watch I've ever seen. Because you get all kinds of tennis watches, right? They're like, oh, Richard Meal does this for tennis. Brand sponsorships and relationships with tennis. Uh and and then you look at this dial and it's so it it's when when your brain is told this is a tennis watch, it makes perfect sense, but it's in a really subtle way. So what you have here is a 39 millimeter by 47 lug-to-lug, 12 millimeter thick black PVD case with 100 meters of water resistance, sapphire crystal, um with this dial that is all printed or not. So so you have a printed kind of railroad minute track, open circular markers for your hours, three o'clock date window with a little bit of a cyclops, and then from like three to four, all the way across kind of surfboardy, just a grid pattern. And at the nine o'clock it's a tennis net. Okay. Just helping you out. here No, I know, but the but when you see it, you don't immediately think tennis. And then you're told tennis and you're like, oh I see it and I really like it. It's a clever interpretation of tennis for the Rally Master, which I think is super fun, a tricolored uh subdial at the nine o'clock. The The printing on the case back is like a bunch of empty concentric racket heads with a pink ball in the middle. Uh, and this is just a fun watch. It's really attractive. It doesn't none of it says like tennis watch. You're not gonna wear it and be like, ah I play tennis. People are like, oh that's a interesting Tron watch. Uh I dig it uh Landeron 24 automatic movement, 2500 bucks. They're only making a hundred of them. Um it's just a fun tennis-inspired watch that unless you know it's a tennis watch, you you don't think it's gonna be. You know, I think the so the prior iterations of this watch this they've got like a a pink and I think they have like a pastel green and a pastel blue um felt to me a little bit more um, I don't know, just gentle, right? Or maybe basic. This one is like it in its execution is is bold in a way that I I think is kind of what you're picking up on like the boldness of this watch is like whoa whoa um and it gives it it gives it a little bit of it gives it a little bit of like rebellious. I think that's what it is. This is like a rebellious flair to this one that doesn't exist in the prior versions of this watch. So um yeah, you know, I I think you're right. I don't think we've talked about prior iterations of this watch, but it definitely has a feel. I think Racket is like a hypey well. They're like it's like a hype tennis magazine. Um but the these are cool cool movement I think it's too expensive. Yeah, it's a 28 24 base. Uh I think what you're paying for is the collaboration and kind of the hype, like you were saying with Racket. Uh the the loom on this is really fun. It is the all the markers are in that aqua blue, the hands. Yeah. And then the subdial is all like a bright yellow, kind of mimicking a tennis ball. Um fun loom layout. I think it's it's it's a fun kind of hypey I think is is a good way to to describe it design. Good dimensions on this. It's it's I think twelve thick. Yeah a little thick. Twelve thick for a three hander. Yeah. I it's al.rig I mehtan good dimensions. It's it's a cool watch. I'm okay with it. Uh I think my I I really like they've got a green one of these. It's got like pink, and I'm a big fan of that one too, but um this is maybe the least feminine of all the releases that they've done of that watch. Perhaps, yeah. Uh yeah, I don't know why. In the interest so I wonder if that loom stripe in the strap is or the the white stripe in the strap is loomed. That'd be cool. It's not. It'd be cooler if it was. Comes with a tennis ball in the box. A pink tennis ball. This one's black. Oh. Um, back to LVMH for me. My favorite or one of my favorite releases of last year was the Gerald Genta Minute Repeater. It was a 40 millimeter single lug watch, and I was like, golly, this thing's so cool. Uh, but it's a $350,000 watch, I think, or $325,000. It's a steal, which puts it in a world of accessibility that uh is inaccessible to me, Andrew. Um they've released a non-minute, or I should say, two non-minute repeaters of the same aesthetic this week at LVMH Watch Week, today even. Um, but instead of being minute repeaters, these are time only. They're calling them the Geneva time only watch. So creative. Um, and and what these are is a very, very similar watch to that minute repeater, at least aesthetically. They're slightly smaller. I think the minute repeater is a 40 millimeter. These are 38. Um, but what this is is a 38 millimeter sort of um circle square oval dial thingy that has a single lug on either side and comes in at 8.15 millimeters thick, meaning it is absolutely incredible dimensions for an automatic watch. We've got both a steel, a beautiful steel uh sort of monochrome gray version. And then also a 4N rose gold version. Which is a real excuse me. It's not steel. It's silver white gold. And then a and then a four and rose gold version. And this rose gold is like just the just the little of rose in it. Yeah. It is just the softest yellow. That's right. It's not like just a little copper rose gold. Yeah. Just a little kiss of rose in that gold. It's stunning. And I think it's I think it's kind of downplayed by that fantastic like rusty orange dial color that like almost makes the the rose gold look just like yellow gold. These are gorgeous, Andrew. These are absolutely gorgeous. Both of these. So both of these are sort of an ombre where we've got a railroad minute track on the outside that's underpinned by a very dark section of dial. And both of them quickly fade to give you a lighter grade, lighter hue of whether that's gray or brown, um, towards the middle. Uh, and that Obre all happens at the outside. So they haven't like tried to spread it out throughout the dial. Instead, it just happens right at the inside of the minute track and so it's you almost get like a two-tone instead of a true like gradient uh these are grained brass dials with a slight sort of sandblast finish. Uh these have a quote unquote in-house, although not in-house zenith elite six seventy movement. It's also not not in-house. That's right. It's LVMH house Elite 670, so they're calling it the GG005P movement, uh, which has been reworked by La Fabrique Dutem, uh, specifically for Gerald Genta. And um these are amazingly, amazingly uh a little bit less than eight percent of the cost of the minute per repeater. So what we have here is a twenty-five thousand dollar watch by Gerald Genta that is full gold. Uh, I saw these and I thought, oh my gosh, time only they're gonna be a hundred grand. Um, I'm not gonna go out and drop $25,000 on a watch anytime soon. Not today for sure, but you know, now it's possible. But oh my can I can I coin a phrase please here anytime you want? So I know I know they're they're calling this the um single piece lug module. I think all I mean I I wanna call call this a a cold shoulder, a cold shoulder integrated lug. Okay. Uh does that make sense to me? Like, oh, it's a cold shoulder lug. Oh, cool. Yeah. No, the shoulders of the strap are exposed and a little bit in the middle. Fair enough. So that's you heard it here first, y'all. And you'll probably never hear it anywhere else, because um, but that makes perfect sense to me. It doesn't change the fact that they heard it here first. No. But it's it makes perfect sense. And you're welcome for that. Um, these I just think these are terrific. I think these are absolutely stunning watches, and I would like to have one. I love every I I love the everything about the watch. I do not like this lug way. The style of lug. I don't like that style of lug. I don't like the exposed strap edges. Uh give me literally anything else. Yeah. I w I would just be happy as a clam with this watch. Anything else? Um yeah, permanent collection. Put it on a chain and I'm happier. Available now ish. Yeah, they they come available this year. Yeah, January. Well, this is January. So um yeah, I just think these are terrific. That's all I have to say about that. Anything else for the lug? I don't know why that I just it like it feels incomplete to me. I think it's I think it's probably because you're boring. I know that. Um basic. Yeah, basic. Uh uh. I just I don't like uncovered leather edges on the strap. I don't like that. Next bit. Next. More Hamil.ton Uh Intramatic Chronograph H. We've got some three new colorways. Uh two are really good. One's meh. We have the three new colors are this really beautiful deep navy with white subdials, a really good green with uh cream, they're all the same color, some dials, like white cream. And then the last is is a uh kind of brick red meh, whatever. Uh so these are bicompacts, chronographs, 40 millimeter cases, 1435 high, which is forgivable because they're based off a 7753 or they are a 7753 movement. Um 100 meters of water resistance, and we've seen a bunch of these before. Um, but there's three new colorways. They're all available in the new permanent collection. They're calling it Matte Blue, Warm Brown, Hunter Green. Uh I don't accept that the red is hunter brown? But that's I was actually just gonna say I don't think it's got all that much red in it. I mean it's definitely a reddish brown, but it's pretty brown but it's pretty it looks like it's brick okay right I mean sure I'm with you yeah it's not it's it's the worst of the three. The blue is really good. The blue is great. The blue is really good. Uh all coming on weather rallies, uh an a nice addition to the permanent collection. Like it it's it's another one of those Hamilton releases that you're like, wait, this wasn't already available? Yeah. Yeah yeah. Hamilton does this thing where they just are constantly dropping things that they should have already had in the collection. Yeah. You're like, oh yeah, here I forgot. We forgot about this one. Uh these are hand wound. These are H51s. Uh what's our thickness on these? 1434. Yeah, that bothers me. That bothers me. It's a 7753 base. I mean, but it's it's a hand-wound. It's a hand-wound chronograph. You'd think that they could get this thing down like around thirteen. That's that would be nice for me. And hold 100 meters. If you're gonna give me a mechanical Yeah, sh hell yeah they could. Yes they could. They just didn't. Maybe. Well I'm not saying no. I I just I I I do see where you're coming from, but I also I I accept fourteen and a hyif for a chronograph. I accept fourteen and a half for an automatic chronograph. But there's no rotor here. No, I still accept the the thickness. Well, I don't. Okay. I should I apologize to you on behalf of Hamilton? Zenith Defy Revival A364 31969 Defy re-release. Zenith uh is very good at it's it's very good at issuing its revival watches in a way that is going to satisfy both the folks that are originalist in their interpretation and folks that want a badass modern watch. And at satisfying both the people who are gonna buy the watch and the people who are going to critique but not by the watch. Well and and you know what? I I think w what's nice about Zenith is they are able to really, you know, span the price ranges of you know high-end luxury watches. So Zenith makes some very, very expensive, wild, crazy watchmaking shit. Uh, and and then then they make stuff like this, which is a I'm just gonna say something, relatively affordable entry that I think is for almost everybody. So um what this is is a faithful reinterpretation of a 1969 defy reference launched with an el primeiro. Um, this watch is sort of got a monochromatic silver tone thing. It's a 37 millimeter stainless steel case with a 14-sided bezel. Uh it's 14? It's got angles. Lots. She got angles. Uh yeah. This is like a like a Rubik's Cube. Ladder bracelet. I hate it. Oh. Which I don't normally like, but I kind of like it here. Um, very angular geometric case um date window at 430. I just love this thing. So uh again, uh Elite 670 movement made by Zenith, unsurprisingly. Uh 50 hour power reserve, yada yada yada. Is it a citizen movement in this bitch? What's going on? And 300 meters of water resistance. This is available at seven thousand eight hundred dollars. Which yeah, I'm like, okay, Zenith. Okay, Zenith, I see. You're talking to me now. So what I'll tell you is we do not have, I hunted, I searched far and wide for a Z dimension for this watch and was not able to find it. Which makes me nervous. However, these are gonna be 13. However, the caliber, the elite 670 caliber is 3.47 millimeters tall. So, but for the 300 meters water resistance, I would say that this is gonna be a very thin watch with 300 millimeters of water resistance. I agree with you, Andrew. I I'm guessing you had said 300 millimeters. It will have more than that. It will more than that. 300 meters. It builds 300 meters. Um I'm guessing 12 and a half to 13. I think it'll be on this. Which is fine. I mean it it's a really hang on, you just bitched about a fourteen and a half chronograph, but this is twelve and a half. I think it's gonna be sub-13. I think it's gonna be 12 and a half. Okay. For a 300-meter sport watch. Okay. I'm okay with that. Okay. Um it's not great. I would love to see the C axis position, it seems arbitrary. Well, maybe. But twelve and a half is objectively two millimeters shorter than fourteen and a half. But this doesn't have a chronograph. And it's an automatic. Okay. it's b Andig a ladder bracelet. Three hundreds. You know, I don't normally like a ladder bracelet, but I feel like this execution's really good. I think sometimes ladder bracelets, the the ladder portion is really wide. Yeah, the rungs are too far apart. The rungs aren't super far apart on this, but they still exist. I don't like it. I I think this is a just a really terrific I think this is just a really terrific watch. Um but I want this on like an isoframe. The ladder bracelet is Marmite for sure. Yeah, I I want this watch on like an isoframe tropic. What's on next? Oh Oh. Uh the Yemma Skin Diver Slim CMM2.20 is in uh bronze right now in a limited edition. So it is the uh Yemma Slim that we know and love, but in a bronze case. So it's a 39mm case, 47 lug-to-lug, 10 thick. We're getting thinner as we go. Uh 300 meters of water resistance. The uh Yemma Morteau 20, the CMM point two zero in-house micro rotor. Um, but it's a bronze case. I try not to interrupt you because you get grumpy, but there's this is being released both in a limited edition and in a um in a regular uh catalog. So they've got two versions of this. The the gray, this sort of ghosty gray, is the limited. And I think they're what 200 pieces? Yeah, they're only 200. And then the green is something you're gonna be able to just get all the time. And Yemma has has really good uh supply chain management, so they are rarely out for months and months and months and years at a time of their watches. Yeah, I think that's right. Um I I'm you know super high on Yemma. I think that I've been I've been verbose about my positive feelings. Uh I just think this is so killer. Um gosh, this one's so good. 2249 euros for the limited edition. And it it's like this ghosty blue gray that's like just with black with black writing. Yeah. Yeah. I'm I'm really into the gray. I is it I think they're already sold out. I'm sure they're gone. Um but the green versions, no no slouch, man. Um yeah, these are killer. These are just killer. Y Yama does a really good job. Uh uh of course of course I would like a brace up, but I think Yama does a really good job of every time they release a watch, like just kind of like upping the ante every time it just seems like just a little bit. Every single one of the releases builds on prior releases. I I mean I think there are very few brands right now that I'm as confident in when I see a new release, you know. So, oh Yama's releasing a new watch. I'm confident I'm gonna like it. It's they have yet to fall on their face. Kinda feels that way, right? Well, I I do think Yamma had some issues a few years back with QC and But that was you know five years ago. Yeah, right. It it just seems like they have really started to lock things in and I'm I'm pretty excited for 'em. I I it's for me, I think one of the most exciting. Even though they're kind of boring, right? That's my that's my speed. That's your that's your happy place. That's my that's my zone. Um is the green version of this, Andrew, a more yellow bronze, or is it just the tone of these pictures? I think it's the pictures. Yeah. I don't know. I I kind of wondered the same thing, but I I really I have to think it's the pictures. Yeah. So 3.7 millimeters thick on these micro rotor CMM movements, which allows them to get this 300 meter watch down to 12.2 uh with a bezel full meal deal dive watch. I think that's great. I think that's great. Yeah. I like these a lot. For twenty two hundred bucks. Yeah. Hook it up, Yama. Mm-hmm. Do wish there's a bracelet. Yeah, we look at this in the green in this, you see it's just green. Yeah. Yeah, so those pictures are are misleading us about what that actually looks like. Um I don't think you have this on your list, so or or do you have it on your list, Andrew? I don't know. Yeah, we yeah. Well, okay. I guess I'm just gonna talk about it. No, you have it on your list. Um, I think we're kind of like everything's the same at this point. Oh, I know what I'll talk about. I've got uh a couple of Omega Speedmasters I want to talk about. These were on my list and then I removed them before I sent my links. Omega just released both a 18 karat moonshine gold and a silver and a silver um version, uh steel version of the Speedmaster Professional with panda dials. And they're both just terrific. These are, I think, two of the most beautiful Speedmasters that have ever been released. So what we've got is a ultra-glossy lacquered black dial with these bright white, like metallic white subdials uh making these watches feel really to me really familiar but also different enough that you're like what why are you different like what what's happening? You get a new haircut? What's happening here? Uh it's like seeing a friend who lost 40 pounds overnight. I know. Yeah. Right? Like it's like, oh, I still know you, but something is amiss. Yeah. And I'm okay with it. Yeah, that's right. Um black ceramic black ceramic inserts on these, which is sort of a bit of a bougie detail. Still dot over ninety. Um if you care about that sort of thing. Uh uh preference that I just can't fathom. I think that is a it's a really sort of granular collectory thing. I don't get it. 3861 chronograph movements, which is unsurprising, 50R meta-certified. Um, we've got 10,000 for the steel and 49,300 for the moonshine gold. Which is the better of the two. Certainly is so good. It is better. Um, but it's also five times as much. Um, and I think you know, some people might scoff at 10,400 for the steal here. That's what you're gonna pay for a fucking speedmaster anyway. And here you're getting you're getting just enough extra that for me, I could see myself doing it. I won't, obviously, because I have a speedy and I'm fine with it. But if I were like a first-time buyer, this would be tempting to me, um, because of those white subdials. I have a proposition for you. Go for it. I will let you give me your speedmaster. Sure, and then I just buy one of these. Yeah. Let me think about it. And then you have the best of both worlds. Yeah, let me think about it. You've done something really kind for someone and acquired uh the speed master that you like better. I do believe that this is the first. I think I read somewhere that this is the first 10,000 steel speed master over \(10,000 Steel Speedmaster Pro. So it it's not it it's not insignificant. Um and these are slightly thicker too at thirteen and a half. I'm not sure what that's all about. Um but what a great couple of watches. I'm with you that that gold one. Oh we it just it like the white subdials just slap against the gold. Tex Tuxedo on gold. Yeah. Very, very, very good. Um, so yeah, yeah, it it like makes the speedmaster a dress watch. Yeah. Yeah. These these are just terrific. So um and there's been plenty of gold speedmasters. But this is uh this one is the one that really scratches the middle of my back. I'm still a I'm still a green I'm still a green on moonshine guy. If I had an exit watch, it's a green on Moonshine Speedy Pro. Um I wouldn't buy it for that very reason. Not a diamond crested alpine eagle. No, although that's pretty cool too. No, it it would be the moonshine, green on gold moonshine speedmaster, I think. Yeah. These look- I didn't ever realize like the 'cause there's plenty of Speedmaster variations, but the the panda No I I know what I know what you're that's my baby. I know I know what you're what you're lusting after. Uh yeah, these are these are good. But they they came off my list, honestly, because it's it's like uh there's there's 10,000 Sedpe master variations. And I just as much as I like them and also kinda like meh. Meh. Yeah. Meh. Um Corono Tokyo. Do it. A meteorite dial in the um oh what's this model called? The insecci. Uh so a 37mm case. Uh we've talked about this this watch before, uh, but now it's introducing a meteorite dial. And again, they are gorgeous, and again, they are unobtainium, and again, they're affordable. 1800 and fifty bucks, they're gonna be uh gone by now because they became available uh four days ago. Um 9 OS 5 movement, uh 30 meters of water resistance, 37mm case, 115 thick. Um Corona Tokyo is just like banging them out. Um, and I'm really curious how. Um, but they're doing it just unrelentingly. I I I think we'll see one or more releases a quarter from this brand this year. This is the last time we talked about a Corona Tokyo watch. I three months ago. I do like these a lot. I'm not I'm not a huge fan of these syringe like kind of like sword syringes. Yeah. They're just gorgeous. The fonts are amazing. Um yeah yeah the these are great um affordable and more expensive than than like well for instance, the Kwame Tokyo pieces we've been talking about. I do think that these are probably better finished and just slightly all all around, probably just a slightly more refined watch. Um but it it was there was a chunk of time there where I I didn't like I couldn't distinguish between Corono and Kwame Tokyo uh and I was conflating the brands, which maybe makes me think they're both releasing more watches. But Corona Tokyo is they also released like three watches last year. Yeah. Um yeah, no, they're they I think a bigger company for sure bigger older company for sure so um Oris good call 38 millimeter big crown or pointer date bullseye, which is I think the coolest big crown pointer date ever released. It's the best Aurus released, perhaps? Maybe in a very long time. Uh, so this is a bullseye date. Not new for Oris, but it's the first time I think they've executed in it this way. What we've got is sort of a a beigey gray with a black sector on top of it, uh giving us a bit of a tuxedo vibe. A little bit of a tuxiphelium. Very much a big crown pointer date, but we're now 38 millimeters instead of forty, meaning this thing is gonna wear terrifically. Forty five five on the lug to lug, twelve tooth thick with only fifty meters of water resistance. My one objection to this watch. It could be just a touch thinner, but that's fine. Um, this thing, oh, and then and then your date track on the outside is red, which just gives it a little Je ne sais quoi? A little bit of fun, right? A little bit of a roulette colorway kind of feel. Je ne sais quoi. Some some good color contrast. Gosh, this thing is great. This thing is great. Red on the rotor. Oh, yeah. The red on the on the rotor is phenomenal. SW 2001 dash 200-1 movement on this, which maybe that's your thing. Maybe it's not. For me, it's not. Uh w with that said, well, they call it the or seven fifty-four. W with that said, it's a totally fine movement. Um everyone's using the 200. Yeah, that's right. Uh two thousand two hundred and fifty bucks on this thing. Really I think just a really great move. They released this. I think they had their veil week this last week where they invite people to veil and we were also busy. Well, I couldn't go because I was in big sky. Yeah, we that's like I said, we were busy. At my own unveiling. Not bailing. Unveiling. I took my pants off at least four times. I know we saw some interesting things. This is great. This is just a really good release. It is good. This is one of my favorite Aurus releases. And it's permanent collection. Permanent collection, that's right. Nothing nothing limited about it. What are we at here? Oh, we're fifty-six minutes. I really don't care about any of the other links that we should talk about that VPC. Oh yeah, I guess so. I'm not I'm not poo-pooing it. Um so we have a new Diver from a brand called uh VPC or Avenistus por Constantinium. Um and so it is uh a brand started by uh a former or maybe perhaps current Fratello employee, Thomas Van Stratton. Um the type 39 VM claiming to be the world's thinnest 200-meter dive watch, comes in at 9.4 thick, and I just don't think that that claim can be refuted. That is razor thin for a 200 meter dive watch. Uh the case itself is um 39mm case 934 thick um 200 meters water resistance using a Salita SW300 top grade. Um, it is a Cosk certified watch. It's coming in at uh almost 3000, Euros on a bracelet and 2768 Euros on a strap. Um, they're gonna make three to five hundred not numbered pieces. It seems to me that that's like a based on demand. Like if they sell more than 300, they'll do more than 300, but they're gonna cap it at five. Um the design is really Really familiar. They're like you if when you look at the the top down of this watch, you see about 25 watches that you know and that you're familiar with and that you like, and it kind of grabs from all of those in a way that is really palatable. Um so the excuse me, the bezel is 10 minute markers, the dial is very typical rectangular markers, uh sword hands with kind of a spade second hand, black on black on black. It it's also silver though. Yeah, the silver dial too. Yes. It's not as good. It's kind of a creamy silver. Uh the finishing on it looks good. The bevel in the lug connection looks absolutely phenomenal. Um, everything looks really, really well thought out, very intentional. There doesn't seem to be a single afterthought in this watch. I agree with you there. And I I really dig it. For as familiar as it is, coming from a new brand, new release, it's a wh neollwy watch, but just inspired by the last decade of small brands and boutique brands designing watches. And it's just kind of an amalgam, like a hot Rebecca of all of the things that we've loved in the last ten years. You know, when they when VPC released the thirty seven HW a few years ago, I um I was pretty high on it and uh you know, it was sort of the same as this, right? Where every detail had been considered in a in a really meaningful way. Um and and this is no different, right? Like for instance, I think Thomas talks about um the hour hands which which in a stack like this sit closest to the dial. The hour hand, the length of the hour hand was designed so that it would pass 0.1 millimeters away from the markers so that it didn't have to so it didn't be as close to the dial as possible. So it could be as close to the dial as possible. Um the minute hand obviously sits on top of that, so it's clear. Um little things like that. Uh and and and and it's hard, you know, Andrew talks about the bezel, the bevel on the inside of the lugs and how beautiful that is. I'm with him. Um, I'm with you. It's almost like a waterfall into the lug. I'm with you on that. I will just say that this watch is uninteresting in a way that the 37 HW was was not that that 37 HW came out and I was like, whoa, this is interesting and cool and different. This watch fails for me to have quite the same mystique. It is obviously a stunning watch, and it's clearly been made meticulously, and I'm sure it's I'm sure it's borderline perfect for a 3,\)000-ish dollar watch. I bet this thing is about as well made as anything. And and you know me, I'm a size sucker. Give uh you are a size queen for sure. Tell an under 10 millimeter dive watch. Fuck yes. With that said, it is boring. And it's boring in a way that I found slightly disappointed when I s when I first read about this watch, I kind of got excited and and I'm he didn't make it for me. But I have to to say I have to admit I'm just a touch disappointed with the global execution on not not any specific execution, but the global execution on this watch. I there's so much cool stuff going on. Why can't we have a better watch? Because everything about this watch is unflawed. I I and I disagree with Andrew that the silver's bad. I think the silver dial is it's a it's fine. Almost perfect. Everything is everything about it is perfect. But it's not exceptional. And that's fine. Wchat itself is a big fat meh. I think. That's fine. You know, I went to a steakhouse the uh uh two nights ago and somebody asked me how it was, and I said perfect without being exceptional. I have no notes, but none of it blew my socks off. None of it made me want to go back. But parts of this blew my socks off, right? Everything is just so well executed. It's flawlessly executed. It doesn't have to it like perfect in and of itself is is an achievement not everything has to be exceptional and this is just flawless yeah it doesn't mean that it's like exceptional. It just means that ev I like every single thing about this watch. I have no notes. Yes, it's boring, and that's fine because perfect often is boring. Yeah. Andrew, other things, what do you got? Oh, I have a kind of a weird other thing. I don't know if I was living under a rock or what's going on here, but I I saw a new tile on Netflix for a TV show called 1122 63. You were living under a rock. What the fuck? How did I miss this? This is a ten-year-old show. It was fantastic. when it came out So good. The book's even better. Oh my gosh. JJ Abrams uh in in typical JJ Abrams fashion, uh James Franco, like i i saw this and i was like oh cool new show and i started it and i was like whoa this show is great so as one does i go to the google and i google it, I'm like 2016? What? Uh so for those of you I'm sure I I'm not the only one. Uh this is a time travel alternate universe reality show from J.J. Abrams, wherein uh James Franco crosses through a magic closet and goes back into the 1960s, uh, kind of like uh sh with a short mentorship from somebody in the modern era and is like, hey, I need you to do something, you're the only one I trust. Here's all my research. Uh Godspeed, my friend. And then is sent back into the 60s with the intent uh with the intent of preventing the assassination of JFK. Um and it's bigger than that. Somehow that's that's a huge story, but it's bigger than that. Uh and in in J.J. Abrams Abrams fashion, he's able to take this what should be standalone entertaining storyline uh and and make that almost like a subplot in in the the bigger story arc uh the the set design is fantastic. The acting is great. The writing is great. I have no idea how I missed this. Uh, it's on Netflix right now, and it's it's blown my socks right off. It's yeah, r really, really good. I'm with you. The book is fantastic, Andrew, and you should consider reading it. I don't read books. Yeah, fair enough. Um yeah, really good. My other thing also on Netflix. Oh so while they still have their Netflix accounts open um I I watched a movie on a flight recently a culinary class wars season two I was like whoa, that was so good. Uh the movie I watched was the new Germa del Toro Frankenstein. Oh, yeah. Uh, starring Oscar Isaac, Christopher Waltz, Mugoff, uh, Field Camera. Really, really amazing movie, Andrew. I didn't you know, I thought, well, it's it's Germo de Torre, it should be really good. Um I didn't know what I was gonna get into. It was so uh good. I kind of don't know with him. Right? His his range is significant. Yeah, well, that's right. Um that's right. For me, this was a hit. Um it is it is uh human in a way that Frankenstein is obviously intended to be human. Uh and you connect with the monster and the doctor at a very, like, I don't know, for me at least, felt like a very understandable level. Um, it was scary and also not at the same time, which I think is sort of part and parcel for Frankenstein. Uh the way to be troubling without being scary. Like almost like Edward Scissor hands, right? Like it's it's upsetting, but like not scary. Yeah, I think that's right. I think that's right, Andrew. Um and the way, you know, there's a lot of source material for Frankenstein, right? You've got, I think 13 movies, comic books. Hotel Transylvania. Yes, exactly. And of course, and of course the the book, um, written by Mary Shelley. Um it the way that Guillermo del Toro interacted with the source material I thought was really compelling. Um gosh, what a terrific movie. Uh I'm I'm not gonna say anything else about it because uh i just go watch it. Uh but man oh man, terrific. New Frankenstein, if you haven't seen it, see it. All right. Anything else you got? Nope. I'm all out of things. Well then that is where we will leave you, folks. Thank you for joining us for this episode of 40 and 20, the WatchClicker podcast. Uh go to our website, watchclicker.com. That's where we post words and pictures uh if you want to follow us on social media you can do that on instagram at 40 and 20 underscore watch clicker or at watch clicker uh that's where we post updates about things we're doing on that website or here on the show. If you'd like to support us and oh boy, we hope you do. You can do that at Patreon. Patreon.com slash forty and twenty is where we get all the money that we get to keep this thing running. And it's it's a significant amount of money for hosting that we need for those of you who are already patrons. Thank you. And if you haven't, maybe consider doing so. Patreon.com slash 40 at 20. And don't forget to tune back in next Tuesday for another hour of watches, food, drinks, life, and other things we like. Bye-bye.