Serica, Clemence, and... Raymond Weil? (370)¶

Published on Mon, 01 Dec 2025 22:16:50 -0800

Synopsis¶

In this episode of Forty and Twenty, hosts Andrew and Everett reconnect after the Thanksgiving holiday and Everett's birthday. They kick off the watch discussion with the whimsical Swatch MoonSwatch Mission to Earth Phase Moonshine Gold, which features a unique availability gimmick—it will only be sold on days when it's snowing in Switzerland. The hosts explore several noteworthy releases including the Titoni C-Scoper 600 with its improved bezel font, the artistically hand-painted Boulevard Super Seville collaboration with IFL Watches featuring Van Gogh's Starry Night, and Serica's innovative new Expedition bracelet that combines bong clip and mesh construction.

The conversation covers a diverse range of watches across price points and styles, from Clements Photic's affordable MK2 divers to the quirky Raymond Weil collaboration with Seconde/Seconde/ featuring a "cuff sweet spot" complication. They discuss Heinrich's guilloché Radiance with its 20,000 beveled edges, Wempe's bronze Iron Walker Diver, and the re-released ikepod Hemipode chronograph. Throughout the episode, Andrew and Everett emphasize brands that are pushing creative boundaries without pretension, particularly highlighting Serica and RZE as companies that refuse to be constrained by traditional watchmaking conventions. The hosts wrap up with other things including Andrew's Sky Guide astronomy app for stargazing with his son, and Everett's enthusiastic recommendation of Will Leather Goods belts as a solution to finding quality leather accessories.

Links¶

Transcript¶

Speaker
Andrew	Hello, fellow watch lovers, nerds, enthusiasts, or however you identify. You're listening to Forty and Twenty The WatchClicker Podcast with your hosts Andrew and my good friend Everett. Here we talk about watches, food, drinks, life, and other things we like. Everett, how are you? I'm good. I'm well fed. You're well fed. I'm hydrated. You're birthed. I'm birthed. Uh I don't know what that means. You had a birthday. Oh, yeah, I did. Yesterday was my own since since we last spoke, all of y'all out there, we have had Thanksgiving and Everett has had a birthday. Correct Mundo. Yeah, yesterday was my birthday. It was he spent the entire day out in our street in his birthday suit chanting, it's my birthday. It's my birthday. It was really, really troubling. Especially for a police officer, an officer of the law. Does it you have to make decisions. Not my shift, not my problem. Uh no, I it was good. Uh birthday was good. We did a dinner at Red Robin. No, I'm not gonna defend Red Robin. Bottomless fries is a hard thing to not defend, though. But with five people, including three teenagers or tweens. Tweenagers. Tweenagers. Yeah. Um, it's really, really a good place to be. They're they're like used to that age. They're cool. Everything's bottomless. And nothing is bad at Red Robin. Exactly nothing is bad. The service is always just on the south edge of mediocre. Young people. They're they're young people. Nothing is ever bad. Yeah. I like the burgers. I'm a whiskey river guy. Yep. Gotta go whiskey river. Sometimes we go bacon blue. Bacon blue's good too. I like the whiskey river. Uh Southern Charm also seems like it's gonna be as good as the Whiskey River, but it's not. Uh so I'm uh I'm a tried and true Whiskey River guy. I do like bottomless fries. Um yeah. Oh, you know what? I had a Sam Adams winter. This is sort of a other thing. A Sam Adams winter ale. And uh Andrew, it was delightful. I was once in a place in my life where I would shit on big small brands like Sam Adams or Widmer. Sure. I am not there anymore. I like if a beer is good, a beer is good. Yeah. Right now I'm drinking a Michelob ultra. You know why? Because it's light, it's refreshing. It's tasty. Yeah. Yeah, no, I I'm I'm not at all. Although I'll drink something local if I can. Red Robin, that's not an option. They have a Sam Adams seasonal. I'm sure they had boneyard. I don't know that they did. Either way, I probably wouldn't have ordered that. Uh so I got the yeah, the winter lager. They had just taken off the Oktoberfest and just put on the winter lager. What good timing too. And so uh it was just really it was really delightful. It was sort of um like uh Belgi. You got that kind of funky sweetness, but then it was topped with like uh a sort of winter spice essence almost. And I don't know if that was like actual winter spices that they added to the brewer or whatever, but man, I tell you, really, really delightful beer. Um, but yeah, no, other than that, I'm doing really well, Andrew. The the holiday was good. Turkey turned out just as good as it possibly could have. It's certainly the best turkey I've ever cooked. Well done. How about you? Uh I'm good. I also had a good Thanksgiving. We kept it low-key. My uh my in-laws came down and we hosted them, which was lovely because we didn't have to drive 10 mil0es each way and fight through traffic, we made them do it. Uh, it also meant that when the kids needed to go to bed, they did so. And we weren't still in the car. It was it was magical. My turkey turned out uh not quite how I wanted it. Uh I wanted the skin to get a little bit little bit crisper. Um but I I had to pivot. I in my five day brine it didn't fully defrost. So I had to I had to uh pivot my plan a little bit. I put it in an hour and a half before I intended to, at a little bit higher temperature, like twenty-five degrees higher, but a little bit higher. And I just watched the temps and like it course corrected and everything cooked nicely and the brine really shined through, nothing dried out skin was okay yeah it it was okay freshly carved and then it it sogged yeah uh as to be expected yeah as to be expected well I'll tell you so I did, we talked a little bit about it last week. We talked about, you know, you've got the two there's the two phases, right? One was a hot sort of browning phase, and then a second was like a 350 just in the oven up to temp phase. And I had talked about maybe doing that second phase on my Kado. And I did that, Andrew. Um yeah, you know, a a Kamado's a lot, not a lot. It's m significantly more complicated than an oven, right? An oven you just put it to 350 and you set it. So you gotta get its temperature, then you gotta kinda keep it at temperature. You and then you add your bird and you've got to sort of adjust it. Play with it a little bit with all that new. But I got it in and I was basically between like 348 and 355 for the entire you know hour and a half, two hours, whatever it was. And I was just enough smoke that you could taste it in the breast, but it wasn't overwhelming. I didn't go heavy on wood on the wood chips or on the wood chunks. So I mean really just delightful. And I would recommend that. I think if you have the option to do that, that specifically the method I did. I'm not going to recommend anything else because I don't know any other method, but specifically that method where you just swap out that hour and a half to two hours oven portion. Uh gosh, if you have something like a kamado or something where you can get to 350 and just sort of leave it be with a little bit of smoke, man, I really do think that that would like everybody who tasted it was like, whoa, that's really delightful. But it was still an oven turkey, right? It still felt like an oven turkey. It didn't feel weird. It it didn't feel different. It felt traditional with just a touch of smoke. Yeah. Which was nice. Uh well, we're not here to talk about turkeys. We could though. We could probably do a full episode. Yeah. We probably could. We probably could. But we're not going to. Rather. We shan't. We shan't. Rather, we're gonna talk about watches because that is what we do. We talk about watches. And Andrew, if you would be so kind. I am going to start. Wondering if you could take us away. I'm going to start us with a fun and stupid thing that is the new moon swatch. Mm-hmm. It begins fun and stupid because it's always fun. And stupid is the moon swatch mission to Earth Phase Moonshine Gold. It is the longest named watch that ever has been. And it's a lovely watch. It's a it's a white case, white dial, moonshine gold. Inverted. They inverted the cases, right? Instead of a blue case, it's a white case with blue details. Uh moon phase on it, Earth phase on it. Uh the moon phase includes a snowflake. Can I? May I? I want to do it. It has a moonshine gold snowflake on its moon phase. And here's here's the silly part. So fun. It's a moon swatch. All moonswatch releases are fun. Dumb. How long the name is silly part. It is only going to be commercially or retail available on days where it is snowing in Switzerland from uh December 5^th through March 20^th. Yeah, so it's available on December 4^th. Theoretically, if it's snowing in Switzerland. I think December 4^th, you've got to go to, yeah, it's one day, one day availability and then all subsequent days. Uh only if it's snowing in Switzerland. Not a ton of details about how they're gonna do that at this point. Although it does seem like that's sort of like a a morning decision. Yeah, like the way the way the marketing materials made it sound is like you'll be able to understand in the morning if you can get the watch that day. Like I don't think it's like a real time like like middle of checkout. They're like, Oh stop snowing. Sorry. Uh yeah. It's it's like a it's like a school day closure. They're gonna touchless pay. They're gonna make their their determination the last possible second and then it's it for the day. So even if it doesn't snow, your kids are still not in school. Yeah. Yeah. The other thing I really liked about it, and and you said you were going to, but then you didn't, uh, is that each of the so they each have a gold snowflake on them, a moonshine gold snowflake, and they're all unique. They're generated unique snowflakes. So each one of these is one of a kindish. One of a kindish, yeah. You know, uh I I hear people like I think about a year ago, maybe a little bit more than that, it became pretty like cool to hate on the moon swatches. Oh it's marketing all some cash. Oh it's a cash grab. Yeah. No shit. It's a cash grab. Uh I'm all about it. I think it's cool. I love this. I think it's fun. I think it's whimsical. I dig it. It is it is a fun, silly release. I wish they could have found a way to not name it eight words. Yeah. Sure. Just like the moon swatch snowy Snoopy or something. The moon swatch snowflake. We Snoopy. I mean I it this is it's a mouthful of a name. It is. It is. It's a really uh fun release though. But the rest of it's fun. I really I I really like it I would wear this. Yeah. I really do think that it's in the spirit of Swatch too. I I like that there are these one-offs. I I I like it. I'm I'm bad about it. I wish it was uh a different Snoopy on every dial too. Like just a slightly if they're gonna if it I think it'd just be fun to add a little bit more oneness to it. Like I I don't think it would have been any harder to just move his scarf up a little bit. Or have some snowflakes falling on him. Um let's speak of watch that is Peace Unique, uh, although n not quite um not quite i individual, or I guess that is individual. Uh Boulevard, Super Seville or Super Sevilla. I think it's Seville. Um Sevilla. IFL Watches Times Boulevard Super Seville PvD Gold Case Homage to the Van Gogh Starry Night. Specifically, the sky portions of Starry Night and not the village below the sky. Um gosh, you know what? We've talked about the Super Seville here once or twice. I think they've all been IFL watches. Is that right? I think so. Because Super Seville is a fun uh I think it's one of my favorite boulevard offerings. Um but it's also just like not it doesn't quite slap for me. Yeah, well, I I think it maybe does for me. And and the reason for that is is just well, first it looks terrific, right? TV dial, great bezel uh perfect size. It's 37.5 by 10.5. And then, of course, um a 262 kilohertz movement, right? The NF10 accurcutron or precisionist movement is just terrific. Uh this is really cool. These are all hand painted. They're twelve ninety one thousand two90 available on the IFL watches website. Um, and they just have these beautiful dolls. There is a I'm sure that there's more story than I know here, but they have a uh a painting of a boy on a building sitting next or on a rooftop, on a peaked roof, sitting next to a cat, uh, looking at the starry night, which is perhaps more romantic than Van Gogh sitting in an asylum. Uh or is it? I don't know. I don't know. There's something there's something there. Um, yeah, I I like these and gold IP coating. I think I said PVD, this is a gold IP paint uh coating on this. I I mean it's a it's a super seville, and these are just really, really cool. And they're beautiful. They really are. And this is this is a like a fun take on Starry Night. It's a little bit warmer. Uh, it's almost like like twilight, starry night, before it gets real dark and deep, or perhaps even like sunrisey. Yeah. Uh but it is it's like a very whimsical take on it and really lovely. When you know sub starry night feels to me very dark middle of the night, but supposedly it's morning light. He's painting the morning light outside of his asylum. Yeah when you're in an asylum the morning light is it's not dissimilar from the dark of night. Uh because it's dark. But these are, you know, I I think there are a hundred of these. Three hundred. Uh oh excuse me. There are three hundred of these and um they're all hand painted, right? These are that's the that is really the nifty thing about an IFL is that someone touched these with a paintbrush. Uh a bunch of times. A bunch of times. Um and that's really that's really uh uh special in watches. You might not like the artwork, you might even not like having a painting on your dial, but there are there are very few options to get a mass produced watch released by the mass producer that is truly unique. I wonder that's not like a you know, like a mod or something, I guess is what I mean by that. It it almost looks like these are painted after the markers I are applied. I do believe that they paint these with markers in place. It looks like they might even do it with the chapter ring in place. Cause there's a in this photo you can see a couple where it smudges up onto the just that little bit of a bevel on the chapter ring between the eleven and twelve. Which which photo are you looking at the main photo the main photo with the guy's clutches around it. Uh yeah, it it's it's a great it it it's a really cool it's a really cool release precisionist movement precisionist painting uh next up for me, Serica has done something really cool. I'll believe it when I see it. I'd really like to see one of these in person. So Serica up to this point has had a a couple different uh did you not see this in person? I didn't see this bracelet in person. Oh that's why I I was making a joke I'll believe when I see it. Didn't see it in fucking person somehow. Ooh Ooh. Keep going. Uh sorica's bong clip is off the chain. One of your favorites. It is one of my all-time favorite bracelets I've ever tried on. The Vesper mesh, similarly fantastic, and second only to the bomb clip. And they've done some wild love child in their new expedition bracelet. And this is like a bong clip interior with a mesh exterior single piece Wild looking bracelet. It is compatible with their other watches. And it is phenomenal. This is This is a wild looking bracelet. And I love it on their design watches. I don't think it looked good on anything. Well, it might look good on everything else, but uh this thing is super cool. From the review that I have read of it, uh, it seems like it might behave a little bit like a Mankey strap in that you gotta look sort of learn how to use it, and then once you do, you never really have a reason to ever go back. Giochen links. It's good. Yeah, so Jerome uh when I was talking to Jerome in New York, he like we were just talking and he was like, Oh, do you want to see something cool? And he just got that look. I don't know if you saw that if you saw that I didn't ever get to their table. He gets this look in his eyes and he's like, You wanna see something cool? And I was like, yes, true. Like Mike France in his trench coat. Yes. Peak inside. And uh he whipped this out, and it is um you know, it's so weird. Andrew, I think you and I both, when we first saw Sarah's bracelet options, we were both had the same reaction. I remember even talking about it off off microphone. We were like, it's just weird. I'm sure it's cool, but it's weird. That is so true with this. It is weird. And he pulls it out, and I'm like, oh my god, that is absolutely perfect. Um the Giosh on the end link is a I mean, you you'll see pictures of this, you're gonna see pictures of this, and and you just cannot understand without having this in your hand how great it looks. It is phenomenal. It is phenomenal. This bracelet is weird. It is magically comfortable. The setting system is really interesting. I just think that this is one of the coolest, weirdest things in boutique watches. Maybe just in watches, right? It so perfectly matches the rest of their design language is just like a little bit modern without sacrificing any of its vintage inspired feel. And y and you know what, Andrew? It's like it it's like with the Giosha and links, it's like 300 bucks. Yeah, 400 bucks, something like that. I mean, which is not nothing, right? Let's not let's not pretend like this is a an impulse buy or a drop in the bucket. But in a world in which a basic bitch omega bracelet is going to run you a thousand bucks or more, right? A Doxa rubber strap, four hundred bucks. Yeah, right. In that world, um you know it really puts a point on what Saryka's doing, uh and and and how cool and interesting they're making watches, right? They're making cool, interesting, delightfully quirky watches in a way that not many other brands. I I I'm gonna I'm gonna make a wild claim right now. Okay. I'm gonna make a wild claim right now. Serica and RZE are thinking about watches. Right now, they're my two favorite brands in terms of how they're thinking about watches because they have not accepted that watches need to be any one thing. Mm-hmm. And there's a few other brands that we could fit in there. And certainly I would listen to your pitches, but for me, these are the two brands that stand out for me as sort of, and it's not even with a middle finger, it's with a huge friendly smile on their face as they come in and they're like, look at this fucking weird shit. Yeah, they've they're like fully embracing their design language and refusing to be p pigeonholed by stuff. And they're doing it, they're doing it in a very accessible way. They're doing it in an unpretentious way. You know, Jerome is like this really like put together hunting magazine dickhead looking fellow. Yeah, he could be on the cover of Burberry. And then you meet him, and you're just like, I love this guy. He is so kind and just loves what he does and loves watches and loves people. Um, and no pretension. I I mean, and maybe I you know I, don't know him that well. I I did didnn't't think he's just so a date the guy, but uh I did, and it was great. I you know, so so those are for me, uh you know, I I I'm just gonna say I think RZE and and Sereca, the reason I bring up RZE i is I mean obviously because of the UTD but the way they've done they've done something I think that's similar in very different ways which is which is maybe the point. Yeah. They're they're fully leaning into what they want to be do, what they want to be doing in the space, and they're not being limited by what everyone else is doing. And they're not being weird about it. Yeah. Yeah, this is a cool release. Andrew, I don't know if you remember me talking about the T Tone the Titone Tits on me? T Tits on me C scoper 600. I do remember it, and I remember it so vividly that I actually didn't pick this watch because I thought this was the same watch. So it is the same watch. So uh when we talked about the the C scoper 600 I said, you know, I think this watch is great. But this fucking font on the bezel is a is a is a no for me. I would never wear this this I just don't like this font. I don't want it. Well, Tony has fixed the font. They released the new Cscoper 600 Coskwatch, which is a big old helium-released valve super a 600-meter go-to-tottom of the ocean dive watch that I really probably wouldn't wear anyway because it's huge and big. It's 14 and a half. But it's but it's only 42. It is all of a sudden. They've all of a sudden taken this watch that was really cool on paper, but it had a fatal fla,w and they fixed the fatal flaw. They they basically changed nothing besides the stupid ass font on the bezel. They've replaced it with something not good, but also not bad. This is the platonic neutral of bezelfonce, I'm gonna say it is perfectly unobjectionable. And I think this watch is really, really good now. It it is. And it's it's 2200 Swiss francs for a like spec to the nines dive watch. Yes. In-house caliber. In-house cost caliber movement. The size on it is competitive with other watches offering you 600 meters of water resistance, 42 millimeter case, 14 and a half thick, 52 lug-to-lug. It's a big old bitch, but that's what it's meant to be. Right? This isn't masquerading as a spec'd-out 36-38 millimeter dive watch. This is a big ass dive watch, tool-less micro adjust. I don't, I mean, I I'm curious how that micro adjust works. It's a it's a push button right in the middle of the class. Yeah. It seems like if you're desk diving, you might be actuating that with with some kind of regularity. You know, I don't know. We ha we did run into that with notice and the nodex. In fact, my prototype Nodex did actuate, but I I don don't't know. know. Uh it sh it seems like a not I don't think it I don't know if it's any less secure than press buttons on the side of a of a clasp, but it seems like a single push in the middle of the clasp uh uh has its has its potentials for failure. Uh or or maybe accidental discharge. Uh uh but the rest of it, this is this is baller. Right? This is I think this competes with the Black Bay every day of the week. Sure or Ocean King or the hydro Conquest or or whatever. There's a handful of watches in this. Take your pick. Yeah. Or even the Oris. Yeah. What do we call that one? Diver. Yes. Uh yeah. And and it it's it it's exactly what you think it looks like, given all the references that we've just provided, if you're not familiar with this watch. But at the price point, at the spec sheet, this is this is good. Plus it says tits on me, right at the right at the 12 o'clock. And it's a big it's a big watch, right? No, no doubt about it. This is a bigger, more robust watch that you know, and and so the you do have the C-scope with the 300, which doesn't have a font on the bezel because it doesn't have any Arabic numerals on the bezel. Um and so it was always acceptable to me. That's a more manageably sized watch than but it's not a 600 meter cosk certified that true diver. It it is it is a Kusk certified watch I think. Is it 300 Kosk? I think so let's I think I I can answer that question pretty quickly. Yes. Oh, I thought it wasn't. It no, it is. Um, and it's also a caliber T ten, I believe. So uh oh no, excuse me. It's a silly to two hundred dash one. Excuse me. But it is still Cosk. So slightly less cool watch, slightly more acceptable price at I think like $1,700 for that guy. Um, more sort of digestible dimensions, at least the Z dimension I think is a just sub thirteen on that guy. So there there are options. I I I mean w when you're wearing a big 42 millimeter dive watch, that's what you want. Yeah, 14 and a half is not is not gonna hurt. It's not gonna hurt you. This is 14 and a half, isn't it 300 T. I think it's uh it's in that range, yeah. It it's in that range. And and and you're right, Andrew, it it works. This ceramic bezel, I mean it's just it is a really stunning watch. It's there are lots of ways to criticize this watch. I'm not gonna do them. I guess it' as 13-6. Okay. Yeah, I I mean I think that the 600 C scopert, the C scopert 600 is probably pretty thick. You you're gonna need to really fall in love with this watch. I I'm for it. I think this is a this is the one you you get when you're w when you're wanting the thick. Uh or a among the among them. It's certainly put itself into the field. You're like, fill me up, Daddy. Mm-hmm. I was rendered speechless. Like I just wanted to get something back out and I couldn't I was filled up a little warm in here. Uh CIMEA. We've seen some uh CIMIA releases uh here recently, uh a brand that uh kind of went away during the quartz crisis and has re-emerged playing pretty strong. We have the new 47 Degrees North Collection, which is a fun colored field watch named after uh oh, they are based in Beale and Bien. It's Beale slash Bien. So I don't know if it's two places or if it's I don't really know how Europe names places. Uh, but it's on the forty seven degrees north latitude line. Which is so that's why it's called the forty seven degrees north. It's where we grew up on the forty seventh parallel. We did grow up on the forty seventh parallel. Every time we drive up, we pass the 40^th, the sign that says 45^th parallel, halfway between the North Pole and the Equator. Um and this is just a lovely kind of no frills Field Watch 38mm case, eleven point two five thick, forty-six lug to lug, uh Eda twenty-eight twenty-four movement, eight hundred50 Swiss francs, and it comes in some really good colors, some not so good colors. Comes with a white kind of kind of guilty because of the faux tina, a black with some fotina, the gray is what has me. Blue is lovely, and then kind of a avocado. Avocado, I but not like but like inside of an avocado. Yeah, inside of a like underripe avocado. But near to the skin. You get a little bit of ombre. It darkens out as you get as you get to the edge of the dial. And I uh I find myself liking that one the most. Oh, interesting. I don't know why, because I kind of hate it, but also I love it with the orange accents, the kind of yellow Fotina. It just it everything works really well on it. It's on a green suede strap. It it does it for me. And the gray really does it for me, even on that kind of um pebble gray suede strap. I'd rather that on like brown leather. But uh yeah, just a really good colorful field watch addition to the virtually unlimited supply of watches. Hundred meters of water resistance, sapphire, screw down crown, all the things. Thousand dollar field watch, this is kinda all the things you want. Yeah. And I've rendered you speechless. I'm trying to think of something to say about it. It's perfectly boring and lovely. And I love that there's another offering in this space. And I I like Simier's watches. Samir's? Kimir. Oh, Chimera. Like from the original Mr. Impossible. Raymond Weil. Ooh. Raymond Weill, our shopping mall brand du jour. Uh you know, 2025, and of 2024, and into 2025, Raymond Wild was not a brand that I had on my multiple bangers bingo card and it certainly wasn't a brand that I had on my Siconde Sicande Collab bingo card um and yet and yet uh we recently talked about the ramen wild to cata heritage just a few weeks ago even and now we've got a Siconde Sicconde collaboration in a perfectly weird watch. I don't like this watch. Here's let me back up. I like the watch. I don't like the collaboration because it seems douchey, but then when I come back to it, I'm like, oh no, they want it to be douchey. And that makes me like it. Okay, so second seconde absurd collaborations. This one is a cuff sweet spot measuring device. It's a complication I believe we've never talked about on this show. Uh which is to say it's got markings on the dial that indicate where your cuff should hit in relation to the watch. Now, when I say it sounds douchey, that's what I mean. Except that this is obviously entirely tongue-in-cheek. So the dials split into we've got a dark matte half, and then we've got a still dark but lighter sunburst half on the mat half we have a dress shirt cuff should cover at least half of the watch with an arrow pointing to the pinion. And then and then as we come down the six o'clock side, written Andrew's turning his phone. Well, yeah, I'm I'm turning it to read the phone. We've got an indication for cuff sweep spots. And then uh about 10% in, we've got business casual. Bizcasual. Not businessual. Bizcasual. And then a little further in we have semi-formal. And then a little further in we've got formal. So it it the more When you keep saying in, it's actually out. Out at that point. No, you're not wrong. It's it's exposing more and more of the watch. Listen, just take a look. It's so dumb. It's so fun too. And it's so fun. And then on the back, and then and and the and this is written in a very serious, no-nonsense, sans serif font, all lowercase, by the way. Uh, and then when you get to the back, there's another indication. So first we've got a skeletonized view of a gear, and then it says, and it says, never wind your watch while wearing it. Take it off first, then wind it in a dramatic fashion, ideally in the middle of a conversation. And it's called And that goes for quartz watches as well. The dress watch code. Um golly, Raymond Weil. I'm winding my watch right now. Who to thunk it? This is so this is today we're talking about like fun kind of like middle fingers without being a middle finger watches. I did wind my speed master in the middle of a client interview today. Because you didn't when you put it on in the morning? I that's exactly right. And then I took it off and I wound it and I put it back on and I was like, I shouldn't do that. I didn't say that out loud. I said that in my head quietly, I believe. Silently, I think. Uh this watch is all of that and a bag of chips in the way of just like a fun middle finger because it's subtle. The the design on the dial could easily be any number of whatevers. And it almost looks like this is. Oh, it absolutely is. It's printed on the on the crystal. Yeah. So it's printed on the crystal above the dial. Yeah. So you get a sh it casts a shadow into your dial. Which is oh yeah. And did we mention that this is a oval dial, vertical oval dial that's 33 by 38 by less than seven thick on the Z dimension with a manual hand wide movement. Oh, like this is actually a badass fucking watch. It's a it's an SW210 base. Uh they they do some in-house to it. So it's the RW 4100. Should be the 4500 because it's a 45-hour power reserve. But you know, who am I to name things? It's a really cool watch. It's a cool collaboration. It's like, okay, Raymond. Well, I see you. Do not let me down. Welcome to the party. Now prove that you belong Yeah. This is only about shirts. You don't need pants. All right, what's that? There's nothing about short sleeves in here though. I gotta work on that. Uh Clements. Tom. Photic MK2 Divers. So we somehow didn't talk about these, uh, even though we had them in our hands and we talked to Tom. We'll have to have Tom Tom on and talk about the new MK2s. We'll start with the the beans here. Nuts and the bolts. 39 millimeter case. 46 lug to lug, 10.5 thick with a domed sapphire crystal. So it's 9.9 thick without its box sapphire, Miyota 9039 movement, 200 meters of water resistance. And right now, pre-order with a strap, 529 pounds, 599 with a bracelet, and they're only gonna go up to 650 pounds retail on a bracelet. And look at these, look at this fully articulating, lay-flat, lovely bracelet. This is money. And they come in just very, very Clemence colors. You you you see these these color patterns in this design with the Arabic numerals of the 12 and 6 and just box markers at the rest of your your your markers and you know exactly the brand of watch that you're looking at uh his his colors are so true to to his design language this is just lovely. Lovely. I have nothing bad to say about it. Great big crown on it. A really affordable, well designed, well thought out. Sapphire bezel? I didn't forgot to look at that. Sapphire, yep. Looks like a sapphire. Yeah. Just uh 904L steel on the bezel with a sapphire insert and then three sixteen on the midcase. Yep. This is money. Yeah. Y you know, and they're seven hundred bucks. I I mean every once in a while I I look at a watch and go through the specs and look at the pictures and I'm like, you know, if the it's like they were kind of in my head, right? In terms of what I would want in a watch, right? Like they prioritize the same things as me. Tom, I think prioritizes a lot of the same things as I do with his watch design. Um you know, I I'm I probably wouldn't design the same exact watch. Because you're not as handsome as he is. But I would make similar decisions in terms of dimension, in terms, you know, the the articulation on that bracelet is just so good. Terrific. Um you know, and the priority on thinness and this is what you what you what you really need if not what you want in terms of anti-magnetic. I mean this is a beautiful sort of delicate dress diver that is completely spec'd. Yeah. There is no compromise on spec here. You you know, if you got this watch prior to like a two-year desert island voyage, it would run the whole time perfectly without issue and be perfect. Right? I I I mean I guess I guess I what I'm what I'm trying to say is like there's no compromise on capability. This is this is a perfectly capable watch. You could do anything in this watch. Yeah. No sacrifice. Not even a little bit. And yet it's gorgeous and affordable. Dressy and affordable. Right. Yeah. Like why do you need a Zen whatever or you know, w like this is it. This is it. You don't need a C scoper six hundred. You can get this and it'll be exactly it'll be exactly as capable. Unless you get to 300 meters. And your head just goes. That was my implosion noise. I don't know what noise an implosion makes, but I think it's like that. Didn't you ever listen to the Titan implosion? I have not. I really I will not. Oh, I listened to it a lot. I won't. Especially when like when they first heard it, I listened to it and it was released. And then yeah. You know, Andrew, we came up in the age of the internet uh where you could very easily click on a thing and have a regret. Yeah. That doesn't happen all that often anymore. Uh there's Ebom's World. There was was There one that was like just gnarly stuff. Yeah. What was it called? Um It'll come to one of us here. Um you know and and then earlier this year, when Charlie Kirk got shot, the video that morning, the video was circulating, and someone said, Oh gosh, have you seen the video? And I looked at it and I was like, you know what? Rotten. Rotten.com. Yeah. And it was like, I just don't need, I don't need it. So things like that. I I mean it's a sound, it's it's audio, but I don't know what it's gonna be, and I don't need to hear, I just don't need to. I'm not gonna do it. I won't do it. Don't it's a philosophical thing going on there. Uh I listened to it, I was intrigued. Yeah, no, that's totally fair, and there's no criticism here. Because you don't see it. I don't I don't like seeing people get killed. Here and it's totally different. Heinrich, German company, that I believe we've talked about, but I can't. I was trying to think about this. I couldn't remember. I kind of went through the catalog. I'm not sure what watch we've talked about. They make really good looking quatches. In the way that German companies do, uh, which is to say, just really, really tight. Wanna see how perfect I can engineer this? Well put together, beautiful, beautiful watches. This is a um a watch that they're calling the Radiance Guillesh. The Radiance is that it has 20,000 beveled edges. That's crazy. Is that true? It has to. Oh, I thought you were reading a spec somewhere. No, look at the every marker is guillosh there's oh yeah guillosh in the every single part of the dial on the and now in fairness these are this is all CNC Guilles. So if this was a Rose Engine Guillos, this would be a much, much, much more expensive watch than CNC Guyche. Um, but this is a 38 and a half millimeter dress. I'm gonna call this a dress sport watch. This feels very much like a seamaster. And I don't mean a modern seamaster. I mean a traditional seamaster to me. I accept your eight millimeters tall because it's got an Eda 7001. It is they have this in a red and a blue CNC geo styles. Um, and geez Louise, I I have a hard time finding something to criticize objectively here. Give me a white, give me a black. I don't just want red and blue. There we go. Andrew did it. Um everything else is flawless. 100 pieces? 100 pieces total, I believe. Um so 50 red, 50 blue. There are $1,120 that you will need to spend if you want to get to one of these. Um, what do we want to count? How many links would you call this bracelet? Is this like a the 10 link? Two, four, six, eight, nine link, a nine link. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven. Nine, I think. Yeah. Or no. No, because it's double that. It's kind of beads of ricey. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten., three It's like a flat beads of rice. It's a 15 link flat beads of rice bracelet. Yeah. You've seen this bracelet before. I I mean we've seen it before. Um end link? There it is. There it is. Everyone. The end link. Not good. Everything else about this watch I like. Yeah. Um yeah, Bombay lugs. End link fitment. Endlink itself and end link fitment. Not good in my mind. The that bevel on the on the lugs, though, it's it's like supple. Like I just want to like Sure Golem it in the in the cave. Sure. Yeah. Sure. I love it. And they're affordable. And they're cool. And it's great dimensions on this. Great dimensions. Eight millimeter on this. Yeah, that's you don't see the seven thousand one very often. That's a good execution of it. And it's got a display case back that shows the seven thousand one, which is it's not a um it's not an attractive movement. It's super German engineering attractive though, right? But they've done a really good job with this. It's got some Geneva striping on it. I think that they've done a really good job with this. With this movement specifically. I think you can skip the exhibition case back. Sh y you could have, but you might as well. Especially at under eight millimeters. Yeah. What's next, sir? Ooh,
Everett	um
Andrew	vempe vemp? w Wempemype? Uh so I looked this up. Do it. Uh it is in English Wempe or in German Wempe? Wempe. Okay, so we have the new But there they are, but but they are I I they believe our pronunciation the family so this is a family owned business the family is pronunciation agnostic they say it's either wempe in American or Wempe in German and I'm mispronouncing that obviously, but something like that. Expire watches. Uh so we had occasion to see a bucket load of these watches in person when we were at wind up at one of the boutiques that we went into. Sure did. Um they they had to have had their entire catalog there in every form, color, and fashion. Um, this was not a watch that I remember seeing. It is the Iron Walker Diver Bronze. So the Iron Walker uh is a line of watches that has come in a auto, a GMT, chronograph, and now and a diver, and they have now introduced it in a bronze case. Uh this is a twin stick internal rotating bezel, well-specked dive watch. Dimensions on it are hang on here. Hang on, hang on. Hang on. I'm almost there. 42mm case, 48 lug to lug, 12 thick. Solita SW200 movement, 300 meters of water resistance, um 100 piece limited edition run on this, and I'm I'm really smitten with the color combination on this. The bronze case is really fantastic. The uh your two o'clock bezel or your clue two o'clock crown manipulates your bezel and has a rubberized marker on the in the middle of the crown to indicate which crown you're manipulating. Both are screwdown. Your internal rotating bezel though only rotates counterclockwise, like any other dive bezel, but by manipulation of the crown. Uh, and it's really good. And then it kind of bugs me that it's 5,000 bucks. Becauseause it I don't I don't I don't really see where it's happening. The case uh profile is phenomenal. I bet this thing wears like a dream. Yeah, no, I I'm with you. Uh uh did you understand that the bezel is rubber coated? Mm-hmm. I don't really under So I like I don't know if it's like meant to be a bumper like to protect the bronze because it's like meant to patina. I ask what they say, but but then the rubber's gonna I mean you're gonna scrape the rubber. And or tear and I I think objectively bronze though has been used in diving applications, uh there's just better materials to be using. I I'm I'm confused by it, but I also really love it. And as somebody who doesn't get in the water unless pushed or fall. Uh this is the kind of dive watch that I I can get I I'd fuck with. You know, Vemp Vempi is a a retailer primarily. I think that they that the majority of their money is made on selling watches that are made by other companies, big, big brands. Um, and so so this is their house brand. I think this is a pretty ambitious watch for a house brand in terms of materials um and design. And they're doing a super limited run. There's a hundred pieces of this. That's right. But it's a Salita 200. It's a cost Salita 200, but for five thousand bucks I don't see it. It's a Selita two hundred. Um yeah. It's a lot. That's a lot of money for a Salita 200. You know, if this is a if this is a 1500 or a $2,000 wand, it's a dunk. Yeah. And maybe with bronze we get up to a little bit more than that, but at five grand, I mean you're competing with big, big, big brands, serious watchmaking chops. Even at two grand, you're competing with stuff. Yeah. That that I I think edges this out in a race. I think so, yeah. I I mean like you said, it's super limited. Someone's gonna buy these, but I uh yeah. I this watch caught my mind caught my eye too. We both we both picked this watch. Um and I I got to the bottom and I was like for me at least. Same reaction because all down through the line through the photos to the spec sheet, I'm like, okay, I'm I'm you have my attention. And and then I got to the bottom, I was like, eh, pass. ikepod has re-released the hemipod. Ooh, they have. And I think they've done a couple things. So the hemipod is ikepods. I may be saying both of those wrong, by the way. I think it's Ichabod. Um sort of a 1990s iconic watch, really puts Ikepod on the map in some ways. This is a 7750 chronograph. Um and they fixed a couple things. This is a very this is a very true to the original re-release, which is to say it looks top-down almost identical. Um which is to say it's a pebble no lugs you know hidden totally recessed lugs very very simple pushers just sort of stick pushers, I think is what I'm gonna call those classic ikepod styling. Uh but they fixed two things. One, there was an E at the end of Hemipod when they first released this. So like Hemipod or Podda. Uh they got rid of that E. That's a big, I think that's yeah, that was the right choice. That was the right choice. The second thing they did is so this is a mono block case, monocock case, which is to say only serviced through it's only serviced through the dial. But on the original the stem release was completely covered by the monocott case. So in order to service this watch, you had to break the crown or at least the stem. Uh, no longer. They've given you access even through the The monoclock monocoque case to release the stem. So well well done. In one of these photos, the the crystal's misaligned. The crystal is misaligned. Yeah. Look at this. This is a this is a top-down photo, and the crystal's rotated like five degrees. I think that's angle. You think? I do. Yeah. So there is a marking on the crystal on these. Because this is the same, that's the same watch. And it's lined up there. Yeah, but is it set the same? It is set the s no, it's set differently. I think I think you're just looking at angle, Andrew. But look at the hands. The hands are in different places. Yeah, but the crystal wouldn't move. I don't fucking know. I'm not a doctor. I'm just an observer. Day date, 7750. Uh I do notice they're not cheap. Go ahead. I do notice that there are no profile photos of this watch on somebody's wrist. It it's got a weird sort of dipped. It is definitely you're going to need to have a radius ulna. Gap. Wrist old freeze. Yeah. For this to fit. And if you don't, it might not fit well. But I think for someone that's got like sort of a anatomically average radius on the dip in their wrist, this is gonna wear fine. It's a big watch though, right? It's a 44 by 18 thick. Yeah. It's made out of titanium. I think when they first released these, they were in titanium and steel. Now they just are coming out in grade two titanium. Um 6,500 bucks, right? It's not cheap or 6900. Um but fully Swiss made. And it's sort of like if you want the iconic ikepod hemipod, here you go. This is a silly watch. I like it though. I like the silver. The the blue tri compacts isn't I'm not a big fan of The silver I am. As as goofy as it is. Yeah, I mean, it is a I I think it's you kind of gotta be into like what you're doing, right? This is an iconic watch. And so I think I think you kind of have to be into like, I'm gonna get this iconic watch. Andrew, what's next? And and and have a bunch of money. Or are we done? Is it it is that time? Do we talk about other things? I'm fine with being done here. Andrew, other things, what do you got? So my 10-year-old has we have a like a beginner's like hundred dollar tabletop telescope and over the last several months has so my ten year old has expressed a great interest in nightly checking cloud cover to go and examine the stars with this telescope. Uh some nights we really get a really good view of the moon. Um but one of the things that I I because I'm not in a an astronomy person. I I love looking at the stars and I love space shit, but I don't know anything about it. Uh same, yeah. Yeah, I I don't know. I can find the big dipper when it's visible. I'm not super sold on the idea that the North Star never moves because the Big Dipper is not always where I expect it to be. So I'm sure I'm wrong about that, but I don't understand how it works. Because just objectively it has to move because we're moving. Right. Uh so I don't get it. Um, but I wanted to be able to help facilitate stuff, right? Even with this very beginner telescope. So I got this app by a company called Fifth Star Labs, and it's called Sky Guide. Uh, I'll send you the link. I didn't do that yet. It is a super intuitive app. It works immediately with the uh gyroscope in your phone. So you open it up, and if you're if your phone's in your lap, it's going to show you the star chart on the opposite side of the earth, wherever you're wherever you're facing it. So what I have found myself doing is I am aligning this telescope with my phone, like the camera sitting right in the the middle of the lens and aligning it. I'm like, okay, that's Saturn. That's what you're looking at. You don't have a good view of it, right? Because you know we're we don't have the Hubble here but that's why like you're looking at a planet you're not looking at a star and and here if you we can adjust this a little bit this is this constellation and there's all kinds of settings that you can add to it that show stuff that I don't fully understand. Uh like it's it's more advanced than than I am. I'm gonna have to grow into the application of this app. But for example, right now, right behind Everett's face is something called Altair. I don't know what that is. It's not a brain. It's the 13^th brightest star in the sky and the alpha star of the aqua eagle. Aquila eagle? Southern anchor of the famed summer triangle. But it's I mean just it's terrific. It's great. It works with your compass, so it shows you what you're looking at, where you're looking at, direction. No, it was a free app. And it shows uh I can't show you, but if you can find a constellation, it it fills out the constellation uh like mythology shape around the stars. Cool. Lovely. I love it. Well, I should have gone first because that's more interesting than my other thing. Agreed. But I always go first. Do you have another thing? I do have another thing. Do me. I um I got I got a new belt this year, and then because I had access, I got two more of them. And then I got three more of those because I liked them so much. So um I you wearing one? I'm no, I am not. I took it off. Uh the belt is Will Leathergood. So I've talked on this show before. I've lamented about how hard it is to find a good leather belt. I don't really understand it. It's super duper easy to buy really good leather shoes. Mm-hmm. Relatively easy to buy a good leather wallet. We have access to good leather goods. And yet, it seems so difficult to buy a good leather. So I think it's because belts have such a wide array, like the the application is so different from person to person. Unlike a wallet. A wallet gets folded up, put in your butt pocket, and you go on with your life. Shoes, you just put them on your feet and you wear them. The versatility of a belt is is broad, right? You and I need have it have super different needs for a leather belt. Perhaps. And yet we want the same things in terms of quality. Yeah. Anyway, these belts are made of full grain vegetable tan leather, and they come with brass hardwares and they come with snaps and they are 80 bucks either from Will or on Hawkberry, which is a lot of money, but also $73 on Huckberry right now. If you were to for instance buy a let's let's let's pick on Kohan. If you were to buy a Kolhan belt, it's gonna run you anywhere from 30 to 60 bucks, is my guess, probably. It's gonna be made of genuine leather, which is to say leather that's been like chewed up and then glued together. Yeah. It's gonna last you between six and eighteen months before it's completely trashed and not usable. And then you're gonna have to go get a new one. On the other hand, if you buy a full grain vegetable tan leather belt, it's gonna last you five or six or maybe ten or more years. It's gonna last three three to ten times as long, maybe twenty times as long as that shitty Kohan belt. Anyway, I found these and they are just How stiff are they? Borderline perfect. It's veg tanned leather, so relatively stiff when they're brand new and then it softens up in the places you want it to be soft so it's keeps its rigidity and it keeps its lateral stiffness, but it becomes more comfortable in the places, you know, everybody's body is different, as you mentioned just a moment ago. This will form to your body, keep lateral stiffness because it's a thick piece of full grain leather. And um it's just great. Anyway, I didn't I didn't mean body differences. I meant like I use my belt differently than you do. Also fair. Same, same difference though. Uh here's the thing: there's nothing special about this belt. In fact, in fact, the reason it's good is because there's nothing special about it. It is a it's just good. Really simple. It's just so hard to find a good belt. So when I found these. And with screws, you can put your rodeo belt buckle on it. You could if you want it, that's right. So when I found these, like I said, I went and bought two more, and then I bought even and I bought three more because I fluctuate weight, and so I've got two different belt sizes. So I've got a smart full range of these in two different sizes, right? Uh and s uh cause I'm like, I can't I I I this is all the belts I'm gonna need for the next maybe 30 years of my life, 20 years of my life. Well, especially if you keep fluctuating weight. They're like getting very half time. Uh so yeah, I got black, dark, and light brown. Um, and in in three in two different sizes. I I mean it's just hard to find a good belt. This is a good belt. I'm gonna recommend it. We're gonna put a link in the show notes. It is hard to find a good belt. If you're looking for a good leather belt, they're not dressy. They are but I can wear them. I've worn them with my suit and don't feel bad about it. It is not a dress belt though. So that's the one thing. It's more of a it's certainly with jeans, certainly with khakis. Um I I wouldn't even venture into the biz cash world. I think it it works, but it's it's I worn these with a suit no problem at all. So it to court. And and you know me. I'm I'm I'm thoughtful about these things. So it's not made for that, but it is good for that. It's not a like a rugged outdoor belt, which is part of the problem when you find these you when you find full grain leather belts, they tend to be like super butch, right? Yeah. Like I don't need that. I just need a good belt. Just just give me something that hasn't been mulched. Yeah. Uh and yeah, that's all I got, Andrew. That's a good one. Uh I'll I'll need to examine yours because I I need a really rigid belt that isn't gonna warp. There might be better options for you. In fact, I would think textile for what you do. No, I mean for like my like when I'm wearing jeans and stuff, but I still I still am carrying a gun. Got it. This would work for that. Uh I w I've been wearing a I've I've bought it several times, a car heart belt that's like good and rigid. Uh and then it goes to shit. Uh but they last five, six years. That's a good amount of time. Uh yeah, I mean I'm on my third one. And I've been buying them since probably college. I think for jeans with a carry, this would be perfect. Um for I wouldn't wear it as your bat belt though. No, no, no. I wear a I I wear a like a special like something made for that. Uh we I think I might have talked I've I have talked about it. It's like wilderness tactical I think. It's a like a Denier Kevlar thing. Rigger belt that's like yeah, it's meant for repelling. Yeah, yeah. And it it gives the rigidity that I need. Yeah, yeah. That's that's what I would uh that I was thinking you were mentioning that. Uh Andrew, anything else you want to add before we go? Uh no, man, I'm out of things. As per the usual, folks, I would like to thank you for joining us for this episode of 40 and 20, the WatchClicker Podcast. Do me a favor and go to our website. That is watchclicker.com. That is where we post articles and photos and writ things and every single episode of this podcast. If you want us follow us, if you want to follow us on social media, you can do that on Instagram at 40 and 20 underscore watchclicker or at watchclicker. If you want to support the watch clicker team, and we hope you do, you can do that at patreon.com slash forty and twenty. Look, guys, it is expensive to do this. Photo hosting and podcast hosting take some money. If you're supporting us, we thank you. And if not, go check it out: patreon.com/slash 1420. Maybe kick us a buck. And uh yeah, also don't forget to tune back in next Tuesday for another hour of watches, food, drinks, life, and other things we like. Bye-bye.