Our Watches and Wonders Highlights (336)

Published on Wed, 09 Apr 2025 13:51:56 -0700

Synopsis

In this episode of 40 in 20, hosts Andrew and Everett discuss the latest releases from Watches and Wonders 2024 in Geneva. They cover several notable watches including new models from IWC (particularly the Engineer line in various materials and sizes), the Chanel J12 in blue ceramic, Tudor's new Pelagos Ultra and Black Bay variations, and Rolex's new Perpetual 1908 with its innovative Dynapulse escapement. The hosts also discuss more accessible watches like the Alpina Heritage Tropic Proof and new Oris releases. Beyond watches, they share personal updates including family health concerns and lawn maintenance challenges. The episode concludes with discussions about cooking (specifically making cassoulet) and clothing, particularly Gitman Bros Vintage flannel shirts.

Transcript

Speaker
Everett Hello fellow watch lovers, nerds, enthusiasts, or however you identify. You're listening to 40 in 20, the watch clicker podcast with your hosts, Andrew and my good friend Everett. Here, we talk about watches, food, drinks, life, and other things we like. Everett, how are you? So good. So good. Actually, uh, like, uh, A little tired, a little tired. I am getting ready to travel. I'm going to San Francisco with my boys this weekend to watch Mariners play an interleague game at Oracle Park in San Francisco. Usually people go to Seattle to watch the Mariners play. Yeah. I, well, actually I've been talking about meeting up for a baseball game with, uh, Blaine Townsend for several years now, AKA at Insta Blaine on Instagram, uh, sort of watch Instagram, uh, elite fame. Uh, we've been talking about meeting up for a baseball game for years. And so the Giants opening up their season with the Mariners, I thought, Oh, we got to, We got to make that happen. So flying down with the boys, flying down with a 11 and 12 year old to San Francisco tomorrow, we're going to get steak in the, in the city and, uh, go to a baseball game. I'm going to be down there for about three days. I got tickets for Alcatraz. Nice. I just watched The Rock, so I really hope that if you're on The Rock and you see Sean Connery or Nick Cage, you immediately divert your vacation plans and understand that you don't want to be unintentional guests of The Rock. I've heard it's very, oh. It's so aromatic. We're drinking 10 Barrel Brewing Company Crush, one of our favorites on this show. Long time favorite of 40 and 20 favorite. But this is the Huckleberry Sour and it is, you crack it and it instantly fills like a three foot bubble with huckleberry smell. Yeah, like you wanna, you feel like you're eating a, A huckleberry jelly sandwich. It smells just like huckleberry. Fresh huckleberry too, not fermented, not sour. Like fresh, sweet huckleberry. That's insane. That's cool. Yeah, this is one of their seasonals. And it's only- It also tastes very good. Doesn't taste like huckleberry though. It finishes huckleberry though. Yeah, you get it on the finish. Yeah. That's really nice. That's really nice. It's one of the seasonals. I need to get a good little stockpile before it transitions to whatever the next flavor is. Yeah. I, I'm still a huge fan of the cucumber. I think that's my favorite, but cucumber is really good.
Andrew This is huckleberry. I think it's pretty nice. Yeah.
Everett It's my favorite. This is pretty nice. Uh, also my dad is in the hospital. He's got sick. sepsis and they don't know, you know, sepsis is something that happens when you have an infection. And so they don't know what's causing it yet. I think that most of the time for infections, they treat them sort of globally. So I think that they feel confident they can treat it without Isolating it. Um, but you still need to isolate that at some point they're going to need to figure out what's going on anyway. Um, so that's something that that's happened recently and that's kind of like weighing me down a little bit, but yeah, other than that, I'm good. I think my dad's stable ish as stable as you can be with sepsis. Uh, so I feel like sepsis is once it, like once it's identified, it's treatable. Well, yeah, he's got, yeah, we don't need to talk about it. His blood pressure is pretty low and they still haven't moved him to a normal room yet because they're trying to get his blood pressure up. So yeah, I think you're right, Andrew. But anyway, that's a weird thing to talk about at the beginning of our show. I'm sorry. I probably, I suggest. What's going on in your life? That's what's going on in mine. I have to mow my lawn again. Andrew, how are you? The care that I have been giving to my lawn in the way of killing weeds and fertilizing is doing exactly what I want it to do, which means that I am now needing to mow my lawn. way more often than I'd like. Yeah, you told me the other day that you want to be once a week, but I do think for probably the next few months, you're gonna have to go twice a week. Yeah, I think so. And honestly, it will just look nicer. The more you mow it, the more full it gets and the nicer it'll be. So it's tough, but I do think you're too mow a week for the next probably two or three months at least. Yeah, I think so too. That's just how it goes man. So that's annoying. Yeah, I mowed my lawn this afternoon and it looks fucking great. It does, I saw that and I was like, that bastard. Quit mowing your lawn. It's hard right now. It's hard right now. Cause you get really like narrow windows. You need almost like 24 hours of dry before you mow. And that we just don't, we're not getting that. We don't get that. We're getting like 12 to 18 hours of dry. And in that window you have to. Like you have to gamble. You're like, can I, can I give it until tomorrow? And then if you do it, you, you might not find success. I got home and it was warm, you know, it was in the sixties, like low sixties when I got home, 61 and it hadn't rained for, you know, about that time. And I was like, it's now or never. Yeah. Get out there. I opted to give it till tomorrow. You can vote tomorrow. It'll be nice. Yeah. I opted to give it till tomorrow. Cause it's not supposed to rain tomorrow. Uh, it didn't rain today. So wait, I rolled the dice. I sometimes I wonder, I'm like, someone tunes in, they pull the strobe on and they're like, it's the week. Watches and wonders in Geneva and these assholes have spent six minutes and 44 seconds talking about sepsis Lawns and can we please fucking talk about watches? We will we could also so I ran into another a new topic this week before we get into watches Anal fissures.
Andrew Are you familiar?
Everett Oh boy. No, and I'm not sure I Okay, I'm not also, not personally either. I just, I figured it might be a topic that we could broach on the show. We're not here to talk about anal fissures. Rather, we're here to talk about watches and watches we will because it is, as I just mentioned, this has been the week of Watches and Wonders. It is still... The week of watches and wonders, I guess technically it's still going on. It's happening right now Watches and wonders is it's it's wondering there. They are wondering about watches in Geneva Can we do one last not watches and wonders do it do it roll real quick brief moment here? You familiar with Suno AI yeah, I I Became familiar with it this week me too. I I don't know why. You know, Andrew, we have this like incredibly powerful mixing board that has like Bluetooth and they're not gonna be able to hear this. Yeah, they are. Just a little bit, because we're not super clear if we can do that or not. Yeah, so we're gonna tease that. Our good friend, Will the Watch Clicker, used Tsuno AI to make this terrific, boom bappy underground sounding hip hop song that is about the watch clicker. And we are, uh, yeah, anyway, we're going to work out licenses and make sure we're good to go because, um, actually, uh, um, Spotify this week deleted, I think a hundred, Yeah, at least a hundred of our episodes. So first, let me just say this. If you're listening to 40 and 20, the WatchCooker podcast on Spotify, don't just stop. Uh, Spotify is a huge mega company. They make bucket loads of money, but they really kind of suck for podcasters. The podcast space in Spotify sucks. It used to be okay. Unless you signed a contract with them. It used to be okay, and then they kinda ruined it. I've always been a little unclear about what the benefit to publishing to Spotify. We publish directly to Spotify. Well, I guess indirectly through our V-I-R-R-I-R-S-S feed. Anyway, long story short, Spotify blows. So they send us, last week, we get 150 alerts. Week and a half ago, we get 150 alerts, and they say, hey, our bots, think we found licensed music in your show or unlicensed music, you know, music that you don't have a license for, please respond to this thing. So I pull them up and there's literally a hundred, it's every single episode, Andrew, and we have the same music. in every episode, music which we have a license for, right? With license information at the bottom of the show notes for every show we've ever fucking published. So this email says, we think we found this. There's maybe like 12 that don't have show notes. And it says, if you don't respond, we'll assume you have a license. However, we may message the license holder just to be sure. So our license is from Kevin MacLeod, who is the largest producer of Creative Commons music in the world, I do believe, original music. And he makes all of his music available with a free Creative Commons license. We've used that music on our show. I use it on my other show. Kevin MacLeod in compotech.com. It's the shit. We have a license. and we list our license information. So they say, we'll assume you have a license, however, we may ask the license holder. So what happened here between them saying, we'll assume you have a license, but we may ask Kevin McCloud, who's giving you a license, just to be sure, to them deleting over 100 of our episodes. So what am I gonna do? I'm gonna do nothing, people. We are gonna do nothing. If you want to listen to our show and you feel like you still can on Spotify, go ahead. I don't know what they're gonna do in the future. They didn't delete all of our episodes. They didn't delete most of our new episodes. And they're not even consecutive. That's the confusing part. It's all bots. So, I mean, feel free. But just, I would really like to quietly boycott Spotify. I may pull our show off of there. If I do, we'll let you know. We haven't done that yet. For now, we'll still be fitting to Spotify. So, yeah. With that, we're here to talk about watches, Andrew. We are, and it's Watches and Wonders. And we are gonna figure out our license on our watch clicker at HipHop, and you may hear it on this show relatively soon, but we do need to figure out that license issue, especially given our recent ban hammer. Yeah, Watches and Wonders. How do you feel about Watches and Wonders, just ecumenically? Watches and Wonders, at least with respect to our show, is always a little bit of a... Meh. Experience. Yeah. I like all the stuff that comes out of Watches and Wonders, and we talk about it every year. It's always cool stuff. But most of it is unobtainium. some of it falls into our realm or some of its tone setting for brands that work frequently in the space that we also inhabit. But by and large, Watches and Wonders is kind of like the Victoria's Secret fashion show. It's like, oh, that's neat. I like that. That's not a buffet I'll ever get to eat at. Yeah, I won't. I won't add to that, because that's exactly how I feel. It's it's just not. It's these aren't our watches. Yeah, these aren't our watches. With that said, I do think we found a lot of stuff we want to talk about. I think if I'm a listener, I'm almost certainly disappointed with the watches that we've decided to talk about, because we don't have an order. We don't talk about the neatest things. We don't talk about the best things. We just sort of, oh, this interests me, this interests me, this interests me. So there's things we don't have on our list. The Parmigiani. We're not talking about the new tank. There are 50 or 60 watches that came out in the last four days that were announced in the last four days that we could theoretically talk about.
Andrew That everyone else is talking about.
Everett On another week might make our list. I just, I think we just picked the ones that kind of reached out the most to us. These aren't all watches and wonders watches either. I guess maybe that's a, Maybe that's a bit of a fiction, a legal fiction, but anyway, why don't you get us started? Uh, yeah, okay, I shall. We're just 14 minutes in, guys. Don't worry about it. Yeah, mind your fucking business. This is our show. Oh, you know what? First thing I want to talk about is, I mean, I just, I'm always slow in my first couple selections. I'm trying to organize tabs. I want to talk about the Alpena Heritage Tropic Proof. Alpina's a brand that I think we talk about with some regularity. I mean, probably every quarter we're talking about an Alpina watch. They do a lot of really affordable, reasonable releases. I think we talk about Alpina, they come up in a lot of our best of episodes. They float in that like accessible enthusiast, Space they're not a micro brand there, but they're I would say accessible enthusiasts. Yeah, and they they design attractive Watches, they've got some some duds but by and large as a brand a lot of what they do is really a quite good and well-specced and affordable and all the things you want in a watch. So the Alpina Heritage Tropic Proof is a little guy and I think that's what really got me excited about it. So the Tropic Proof is a 34 millimeter kind of field feeling but not field watch at all. Sport watch. And it is good. So it is kind of a reinterpretation of a old variation of the same name from Alpina. It's a re-release, I guess, but it's not exactly, it's one of those re-interpretations, but without really modernizing the size. And I think that's what we see a lot of, and I think that's why I like this release, is that it's not the Tropic Proof 2025. It's the Tropic Proof updated, but still in 34 millimeters, still in this very I don't, I don't even know if antiquated size is the right, um, mate, but maybe though like this diminutive antiquated very 1950s sixties, eh, about sizing. I think that's right. Uh, we've got a, so, so thickness on this case is 9.25, 30 meters of water resistance, super Luminova, No bracelet, which is kind of a bummer. Oh shoot, I should look at that movement. Here's where they lose me a little bit. It's 1900 bucks. It's their AL-480 movement. Which is based on something, it's gotta be. It's based on... This is an in-house. Yeah, what is it? It's new for this size case, but regardless, this is a really attractive, very small sport watch. And I'm for it. So this watch is actually inspired by Francois Bourget, who was a early 20th century watchmaker. So Rolex, the Oyster case is often called the first waterproof watch case by Rolex, amongst others. But Francois Bourgel actually patented a waterproof watch case before Rolex and was making watches for Patek and a bunch of other Swiss brands. So they've given Francois Bourgel a nod with this watch. And I think that's pretty fun. And I also love the phrase, Andrew, tropic proof. I love it. Especially with 30 meters of water resistance, right? That's perfect, though. I mean, that's that's what these watches, you know, and 30 meters of water resistance. So a lot of water that can resist 30. Yeah, it's not going to get tropicalized. I think this is fun. I, I do think it's super Alpina, right? It's like a little bit boring. I think they maybe did a little bit too much reaching back here. There's always a line, right? I don't know. Maybe not. It's such a simple watch. It's hard to criticize it too much. I think they should have put this on a bracelet and a traffic strap instead of leather. Yeah, this is fun. And I may be with you. I may be with you that the price. At least to me, strikes just a little bit high, but it's not especially with knowing nothing about this movement. This is a this is a new movement to the the consumer from Alpena. So we don't know what we're looking at. um okay so we've got a couple choices here for for i'm gonna i'm gonna roll we're gonna talk about a few iwc watches we are iwc did some things this week yeah iwc did some things so we're gonna talk about a pair of iwc engineers uh start with the 35. So I didn't see announced this week, a new engine or the automatic 35 which I think is a really fun size for this format. So interestingly, the Ingenieur comes out in the 70s and it is a 40 millimeter watch, which in the 70s was, I think they referred to it as jumbo because it was, A big ol' bitch. A big ol' bitch. Which is interesting because, you know, here we are now with a 35 millimeter engine arm, which almost doesn't make sense. And yet, looking at this watch, I think, gosh, this is almost just perfect. This is such a good size for this platform. Still a little thick at 9.4 and it's just, it's not actually thick. It's just a little, little thick with some Cs. I actually think 9.4 is perfect for this watch. So we've got, this comes in a 5N red gold or a steel, sort of a champagne dial on the former and a pretty crispy white. Both of these with, oh, what do you call that pattern? Sort of like a herringbone pattern. Gosh man, yeah I don't think I don't think I'd like herringbone on that But I don't think I can disagree, okay It's just not, it's unique. We've got a Sapphire case back on these. They're coming in at not absurd prices. A little bit over $11,000 US dollars, like $12,000 US dollars for the steel and $42,000 for the red gold, which is a lot. Gosh, precious metal and all. I think with this size, so the Ingenieur, a really interesting case with those crown guards. I think this watch actually wears really well on a number of wrist sizes, if I have to guess. And I'm here for it, man. This is cool. One at 35. It doesn't have a lug-to-lug on here that I'm seeing. at least of the article that we're reading. Yeah, so the lug-to-lug on these is actually weird because the case is flat and then it scoops down. So I think the lug-to-lug distance is both longer and shorter than this wears, which is a weird phenomenon. But it's actually a really unique case in that way. So I don't know what it is. If I had to guess, I'm gonna guess that's 48. but it looks to me like it's gonna be pretty wearable from the profile views. Yes, because it grabs the bracelet at almost a 45 degree angle. And then it's, yeah, I mean, it's almost integrated. Yeah. No, it is integrated. No, it's not. Those are just super short lugs. It's an integrated watch. The middle link connects directly to the case. Yeah. Smart people disagree sometimes. I'm gonna say definitively it is. I don't understand why I'm having a problem with accepting it. I just, but I am and I don't understand why. Well, how about we just stick with, uh, IWC and we talk about the full gold IWC engineer automatic 40 because holy poop on my pants. This yeah. Black dial gold, rose gold watches with black dials. Yes, make it up in my pants. And by that, I mean, I get a boner and it's, it's a small one, but that's what I have to work with. Uh, yes, this thing's incredible. This is fantastic. And we don't talk about IWC all that often, but we've got, cause it's like the most boring watch brand on the face of the earth. They're not today. Not today. Uh, so we, we were talking about an engineer already. Uh, we were talking about the 35, the third, the full 40 is what do you call, what do you call the, the pattern of the floor at the Boston garden? What is that? Is that parquet? Anyway, keep going. It's so we have the same dial pattern as in this 35 millimeter case. 10.4 thick. 18 karat gold case. The movement is there. The IWC 32111. Five day power reserve. This is just good. I'm trying to think of other gold watches with black dials. Well, I'll tell you the Datejust, the gold Datejust with the black dial does things to me. This does similar things to me and I just love it. I just love it. I think way too often gold watches come with champagne or gold or silver dials. Uh, and I don't want it. This is what I want. This watch is stunning. It costs a lot of money. Um, the, this is an exit watch. Yeah. Yeah. I'm out. A hundred meters of water resistance on it. Still. See y'all later. Yeah. Genta designed. Absolutely beautiful. I love this watch. Um, I struggle to say that I wouldn't take any other watch over this, but this is one of a few watches. The moonshine gold, green, bezel, speedy. This has like alpine eagle flavor. I take this over and out every day. Don't like, it's not even close. So like the, so that moonshine gold speedy or this guy, I think like are up there with, for me, like, just like, give me that. And I'll be done. Like, if someone was like, please stop this fucking podcast. Just stop. Stop punishing us every week. Take a watch and go away. If they had this in their hand, I'd be like peace deal peace. Please take my microphone. It's yours.
Andrew They're nice microphones.
Everett They're nice microphones. The board is nice too. They can have it all. That's a fair trade, I think. I love this. I love it. Yeah, this is good. This is and it doesn't feel like IWC. Yeah, I mean the engineer, but it is like I did. The engineer is. Is such a weird. The skew in the IWC line because it is unlike. Everything else. Yeah, but it's terrific, I yeah. this feels to me like it is the IWC. So, uh, and since we're talking about unique engineers, that's what seems to be where IWC is putting their money. Uh, we have a full ceramic release, uh, and at watches and wonders in a full ceramic black available in the 42 millimeter case. Again, a hundred meters of water resistance, the black grid motif, what this article is calling the dial pattern. There isn't a better name for that. I've seen grid in quotes a few times, so I think that must be IWC's term for it. I'm gonna say parquet. Yeah, I accept because I can't disagree. 82-110 movement on this. We don't know what the IWC movements are. I think that's a good one though. It's probably good enough. 19-5 for the ceramic engineer in 42 millimeter case. So we've got three case sizes coming out in three very different case materials. Yeah, well, I mean How much was the full gold was it 45 it is TBD, okay but you know, I think that they are doing a good job playing with materials here and I say what you will about Precious Metal, I think ceramic is having a moment. Not to say that it's just coming out, I think ceramic's been, IWC's been playing with ceramic for a long time, but I think that ceramic in particular, dark matte ceramics are having a moment right now. Yeah, it's interesting to see IWC throw in their hat in that game because IWC is very much a brand that just like does their thing kind of almost independent of what everyone else is doing. The first ceramic watch that I ever fell in love with was an IWC. Yeah, I think that we're going to see more and more really, really cool ceramic executions in high-end watchmaking here in the next three to 10 years. And then I think we're going to see it filter into more affordable watches. And I'm kind of pumped for it. Mito's played with ceramic, you know, there's been a couple, Mito obviously played with ceramic a lot. There's been a couple of other companies that have just started to dip their toes. IWC may be an early adopter, but I think we've seen it increasingly. For instance, Chanel. has played with ceramic. Do you know the Chanel J12, Andrew? I don't. I'm not familiar with this watch until now, but Chanel introduced a new J 12. And if you go to the website, it says in this very like sort of apple looking text, it says it's not black, it's not white, it's blue, blue, blue, like, like the cheese, not the color because they're French or Swiss or something. They're not American. That's for sure. So what is it? It's an existing watch, the J12 Automatic. It is a watch that Chanel has released in the past in black and white, but now you can get it in blue. And I've looked at this now, I've looked at this in the other colors and I say, meh, right? Is that a fair thing to say about the Chanel J12 in black, poor Amplo? Yeah. In blue. Blue. Blue. I am here for it. Oh man, I hate this. Well, even in bleh. So you're wrong and you're dumb, but I'm here for this. I think this is fucking great. It's a full matte blue case and bracelet, matte blue ceramic case and bracelet. We've got a Kinesi, uh, caliber 12.1. which is a COSC certified watch or COSC certified movement. We've got this really great sort of geometrically fluted bezel. We've got an excellent end link. We've got a weird organically flowing bottom of the case that looks like it would be super comfortable. It's made in Switzerland. It has got a terrific sector dial. I just want it. I want it. I want it. I want it, Andrew. I don't like the dial. Well, and I don't know what it is about the dial that I think the dial is maybe the most controversial part of this, right? Because the case is great. I really like the bezel. You've got these Sapphire baguette markers, which Weird, but I like them. We've got a weird handset. I guess long skinny Looned baton handset and then this the sector Portion of this thing I think draws your attention in a way that is maybe not perfect Yeah, and then the J 12 is just way too big is huge But I still want it. Barring that, barring the dial. But I still want it. The rest really works for me. So I think I figured out these are $10,500, which is a big number, but it also is a number that surprised me for being incredibly reasonable in the world that these guys are playing in. Yeah. I mean, we were just talking about $10,000 watches from not channel who aren't experimenting with colorways within ceramic because ceramic colorways are challenging. And Sapphire markers is a really cool addition. I mean, yeah. So this is half the price of the engineer, right?
Andrew Yeah.
Everett And it's made by this French company called Channel. And for those of you unfamiliar with it, that's a fancy brand. They make aftershave purses and shit. I, yeah, I, I know Chanel is not a watch company and they're not even a watch company in the way that, Like Chopard or but neither is Louis Vuitton and Laura Cartier or whatever, right? So Chanel doesn't have the same sort of bona fides. And so I get that in jewelry making. Yeah, but this is clearly a Well put together watch that it's got a kinesi movement. We have Chanel owns kinesi. So I mean This is terrific. This is a great very and so this is an existing model for Chanel. I But something about when we made fun of tutors, I go, it's blue. Well, when Chanel doesn't, I'm here for it. Chanel made their whole case too black to be blue and too blue to be black. It's the line that they have in their marketing materials. Chanel J12, I'm sold. I mean, not literally, I didn't buy it. You're probably not buying one. I might. Would you make fun of me if I wore a Chanel watch? I don't know. Buy one. So you can see, see what happens. Let's, let's, I bet I could get some good shit in San Francisco. I'll go. Let's just see what, uh, how it plays out. Um, how gosh, what should we talk about next? Uh, you know, we'll, we'll do something boring. Grand Seiko with a new SBGW323 Kiri. This is Grand Seiko celebrating the Kiri flower with a stunning purple Mount Iwate in this 36.5 watch and that's what I'm really digging is great sizing on this. Grand Seiko I feel like is so frequently doing weird sizing in watches. 5,600 bucks, manual winding watch just gorgeous like soft like soft purple really lightly textured but super apparent texture that's the same Grand Seiko texture that every watch has, so it has its own story about the God knows what. For why it's that texture and dial color, but it's just gorgeous. I'm not usually a purple dial guy. This one hits for me. I had the same problem with this that I have with 95, maybe 98% of the Grand Seikos that exist on earth, which is that it's just too thick. Even at 11.6, it's too thick, but this is, it's a Grand Seiko releases. We used to talk about them a lot. I almost never pick them up anymore. Cause I'm like, okay. They, they release more than, than Seiko proper. Okay. Okay. I feel that way about this. I'm like, okay. And it's not that I don't like the watches, because I go to like the skis counter here in a town and I put them on and I'm like, I like this, I like this, I like this, I like this, oh my gosh, I really wish I could get this. But they released a new watch and I'm like, okay. Well, what's interesting about this, particularly about this release, is how affordable it is. relative to a lot of other Grand Seiko. Sure. It's, it's half the price of most new Grand Seiko releases and it's not spring drive. Like it is lacking some of the cool factors of Grand Seiko, but with all the finishing, with all the design, with all the Grand Seiko-ness at 5,600 bucks. It's a perfectly wonderful watch. That's just, of zero interest to me. You're not interesting to me. So last year, Ted Hoyer introduced their solar graph movement, or I guess maybe even earlier this year. Um, and it is a, it is a, a solar movement that can charge incredibly quickly on either real sunlight or artificial light. It's fantastic. It, has been introduced in a very robust line of OG-esque Tag Heuer Formula One watches. Tag Heuer is the new timer of Formula One. New again. And they've given us a bunch of very, very good Formula One watches, some of them feel relatively modern and others feel like they could have been released in 1986. Did you know that Formula One was the first watch to bear the Tag Heuer logo? I did not know that. So prior to the Formula One, it was just Heuer, and then TAG pulled Heuer out of bankruptcy, and it became TAG Heuer, and the Formula One was the first watch to bear that logo in 1986. And so I love that. I love that piece of history. These new watches come in both steel cases, but also biopolyamide cases. which I think of the two are the more interesting ones. We've got a handful of different watches. We've got some really sort of traditional looking, all of these have colored bezels, by the way. We've got some pretty traditional looking ones, but then, gosh, we've got like this red with black bezel, red polyamide with black bezel. We've got my favorite, the Christmas. The Christmas color, yeah. Red color green bezel. I think I like the red and black better, but Christmas is good. We got black and yellow. And they're solar graph. They're like, these things are 10 second. It lasts for the next year. A hundred meters of water resistance. And they're all under two grand. These are all under two grand. And I love them. I love them. What would you like to say about these watches? Are these all PVD or are they resin? Uh, no. So the polyamide, so the bezels are all, um, the bezels are all PVD, but the cases are, well, I don't think that's true, Andrew, actually. So we've got a steel case and bracelet. I think that the, the ones with the colored cases are full polyamide and the ones with the steel cases are PVD. That's, I believe that's true. That would make sense. I really like these. I really like these. They look premium, but they're also playful. And are good. Which is a good place that Tag Heuer is playing in right now. Yeah. Like just a touch novel without being a novelty watch. Yeah, well, I mean, they I think this is in their novelties release. But I agree with you that it's not a quote unquote novelty. I mean, they're all limited edition. I don't know how limited they're going to be. But I like it. Yeah. These are cool. So, and, and almost, I mean, we're coming up on the 40th year of the formula one watch. So, and they just won back the contract. So it is 38. These are 38. So they, so they did come out with the 35 millimeter. Um, these are 38. So. There's a new Pelagos in town. There's a couple of them. There's a new, a new Peli with the Ultra. Just, just, just for you at home, we're going to talk about Tudor for probably about the next 15 minutes. Yeah. They did some things at Watches and Wonders. Uh, so, so the new Ultra. Some upgrades here. Yeah.
Andrew Yeah. Yeah.
Everett It's now a 43 millimeter case. Yeah. All titanium. Yeah. The same, same there. Yeah. Thousand meters of water resistance. That's real deep. That's that's real deep real deep. It's all the way in fourteen point five thick Kenecey MT five six one two movement 8,800 bucks though And I think something that's always been really appealing to me about the Pelagos is that it's been right on the north edge of that affordable space, right? You're talking 5,000-ish money for a Pelagos. And this isn't that. And I don't think, I don't know how to feel about it. I don't think this is supposed to be an affordable watch. I think this is supposed to be a GFY watch. Metacertification, 65 hour, I mean, this is a thousand meters. They're like, well, we're gonna make a big, stupid tool watch. What is this, 14 and a half? It's not even outrageous. I mean, great size. Yeah, 43 millimeters, 14 and a half.
Andrew 5950, 5,950 bucks. What'd you say?
Everett The Ultra? Yeah, $5,950. Where are you seeing that? With the Kinesi movement, this one. The Ultra Metas? I think you're looking at a different currency. Maybe it's Australian money? Yeah, I bet that's what it is. Oh, it is Australian money. Yeah, $5,950 on a bracelet.
Andrew My opinion has changed.
Everett On a titanium bracelet, yep. Yeah, grade two, grade two bracelet, grade five case. Like micro adjustable or dive adjustable clasp. I'm here for it. Is this the new Pelagos? No, they still have the Pelagos. Yeah. The Pelagos is still a terrific and capable watch. This is their DSD or whatever, right? Yeah, the, the, the deep. So now you can go 200, 300 or a thousand with, with your Pelagos when you're diving at 200 meters. I don't even want to make fun of it. I'll just make fun of it for a little bit, because I'm a sarcastic asshole, but I love this thing. I think it's super cool. It's good. I mean, it's it's the the Tudor dial, but the Pelagos in like a really good turquoise. Yeah. Is the only color on the dial. It's good. And the bezel is a good color, too. It's like a like a charcoal or a very dark. black, like matted black, so you can't tell if it's gray or if it's black. I think it is black. I think the bezel is black, but it plays. With a little bit of white in it. Yeah, it plays pretty light, pretty gray. I think it's great. Black Bay Pro Opaline, which is the polar explorer of the Black Bay line. was finally released this week, even though people have been suggesting this was going to come out for the last... ever. Four years. Uh, yellow GMT hand crispy. They're calling it Opeland, but crispy white dial polar white. You might even say, um, it's a light. Yeah. It's a black Bay pro, which means that it's a giant box of a watch, a big beefy, Oh, how thick are these things? Are they 15, 13? Yeah, I mean, it's a big, beefy watch, which they wanted. They were like, we have the BlackBit 58, this is for you guys that want the big, beefy guy. But it's big and beefy on a 39 millimeter case. That's maybe the confusing thing to me. The white dial just looks great. It does. It really makes this look like a much bigger watch It opens it up, it's a much more sort of like open dial than the Black Bay Pro was, I think, which is the same reason that people like the Polar Explorer, right? Because it just is a really open, big dial, even though the size is not different, it really opens up the dial. This is not a surprise, I would say that They got rid of the faux tina or the tan tina. And so you got, they did it right.
Andrew Yes.
Everett Everybody knew they were going to release this. They've known they were going to release this for years. They finally released it and they didn't miss. How do you feel about the faux riveted bracelet? I never like that, but that's what they do. It's fine. It's the same bracelet. It's fine. Just don't do it. That's how I feel about it. I think they nailed it. I think, barring the faux riveted bracelet, which I don't love, I think they nailed this. They did this exactly the way they should have done it. And I don't have anything else to say about it, because it's just a different dial color.
Andrew Yeah.
Everett Black base 68? Tell me about it. Is yet another addition to the Black Bay family, a 43 millimeter case. These are thickness-wise, well, let's get down to this, 13.6 thick, 200 meters of water resistance, 4,700 euros. Wait, what's a black bay 68? It's a it's a fat black bay 58 I Like this age, it's a 43 millimeter black bay. Yeah All I like I expect we'll see the entire suite of colorways coming in the colorways available right now are Tudor blue silver That's it.
Andrew And that's it.
Everett And we've got blue, we got silver, we got black bezels on both. And for the next year, we will be getting every other week a new colorway release of. I don't think so. That is not how Tudor rolls. I don't, I, I would don't think we're going to get that. I think we're going to get a few Alis. if I had to guess, but I think they're rolling with this. We're gonna get a burgundy, we're gonna get a black, we're gonna get a... I'm skeptical, man. That's just not how Tudor does their releases, but it's a great platform for that. We're gonna get up to about five permanent edition colorways in this collection. Do you know something I don't know? Why do you think that? I just think that's what they're gonna do. Twitter's never done that before. But that's how they deal with their segmentation. Every size has its five colorways. I don't know, man. We'll see. It took him four years to come out with a white. Black Bay Pro that everybody knew they were going to come out with. So we'll see. We'll get black for sure. I like this. I will make one. I think that they could have been a little braver and gone with 20 millimeter lugs on this. I would have liked it if they had kept the lug size on this. It would have changed the proportions of this watch. And I'm guessing they didn't want to do that. But I don't love that it's a 22 millimeter lug. Yeah, just leave that I think the proportions are suitable though. Isn't this is this is a great watch it is. Yeah, this is really cool But it's also like whatever medicine metacertified movements and these come in about 40 about five grand and then finally we Tudor known for releasing thousands of colors has finally released another color of the black the black bay 58 and burgundy Yeah, hooray. Okay, so there's two more watches. We're really not gonna go for 10 hours. We have three more watches we need to talk about. We'll speed around two of them. So the Club Sportline, Nomos Club Sportline, they released a world timer. Mm-hmm, and it is we've talked more about no most this year probably in the last three years combined It is Excellent. It is good. It's a 40 millimeter with a 20 millimeter lug width steel sport watch that has perhaps the most low fuss world timer function on the face of the earth. You click a button and a single button that's located at two o'clock and it changes your Time zone it changes your region Giving you a second time zone at just one click click click. It's probably a Might be a little bit of a pain in the butt to move it around, but it's very fuss-free You don't have to remember anything or do anything funny Nine nine thin These have these pneumatic movements in these, so it's a 4.8 millimeter movement, which allows them to get 100 meters of water resistance at under 10 millimeters. They're beautiful, they're excellent, they're gorgeous. You may not like the dial. I don't know how you don't this silver dial with the the blue. It's not the chapter ring. It's the world timer ring where like your your chapter ring belongs. Yeah. A Pepsi sub dial with a three o'clock with a red. And this is just a really good color way, the blue is. I think the blue is really good, too. It's gorgeous. But the shivers is who? These are excellent. These are excellent, and they're like 5,000 bucks. Yeah, which is, I mean, that's outrageous. Yeah. In a good way. Yeah, it's good. Outrageous in a good way. These are really cool. This might be my favorite NOMOS watch Yeah, and I really like NOMOS watches. This might be the one they all could they can both come on bracelets Mm-hmm, which really I think NOMOS needs to have more bracelets We just talked about how I were just talking about how NOMOS doesn't have enough bracelets. They heard they they were listening. Hey, mr. NOMOS I'm so glad to learn that you're a fan of the show. And really super appreciate that you took our feedback seriously. We appreciate that. Oris released a bunch of colors you've seen. You've seen the colors. You've seen the big crown. As Oris does. Pointer date. I don't know if it's this article. I pulled up an article earlier that said it had a typo in it and it said big brown pointer date. I think it was on Worn and Wound. In fact, I'm 95% sure it was on Worn and Wound. One paragraph says big brown pointer date. Some of the comments about these are that we've got arrow, arrow date hand instead of a crescent date handle. We obviously don't have the iconic bezel. Okay, whatever. These come in both Caliber 400 variants as well as Sellita variants. The prices aren't even that much different I think. No, pricing on these are $4,300 on the 403. On the bracelet and $2,300 on the Selina. They both come on bracelets. You've got blue, yellow, and blue, yellow, and I think they're calling it lilac. It's sort of a purple. the Salida and then a terrific terracotta and blue or in green excuse me on the like a mossy green on the caliber 400 really like that green I Don't think the caliber 400 models come on a bracelet, which is a bummer. I Think that's a bummer or the caliber 403 I Yeah. Oh, also if you get the caliber 400s, it's got a sub seconds at six, whereas, whereas the Salida have just a center seconds hand. And now we get to talk about Maybe the first Rolex release I've ever been excited about? Is this the first Rolex release that we were alive for? Let me think. Well, no. So the 1908 came out last year and I think that's a good watch. I'm trying to think. of another Rolex that's been released, like introduced. I don't know when the Sky-Dweller came out. Let's see. Yeah, I don't know, Andrew. So there's a new Rolex. An actual new Rolex. Oh, so the Sky-Dweller came out in 2012. Yeah, that's what I was thinking. I thought it was pretty recent. It's not that recent. 2012. Yeah, that's, I mean, that was 15 years ago. I was a lawyer in 2012. It's still not that recent. We knew each other. We, we, which is again, not that recent. So, but we have a new catalog line from Rolex and, and, and, and, and, and, and, and it's an oyster quartz, but it's not quartz. It's an oyster matic. It, That's what it is. It's a noise dramatic. And it's got a really, really neat movement. And it's thin. Rolexes tend to be not thick, but they tend to, they're not, they're not the skinniest watches. Um, so what we have, we have a, um, Dynapulse is a new patented direct impulse escapement. that uses dual silicone wheels. They're calling this the Caliber 7135. This is an integrated bracelet sport watch. It looks very much like an Oysterquartz because it is, I think, spiritually at least a successor to the Oysterquartz. It comes in 36 and 40 millimeters. We've got it in steel, gold, and platinum with all having the same shape clearly meant to evoke the Oysterquartz case. I think we've got a fluted bezel, much like a Datejust or a President. I think the one thing about this, oh, and it's thin. Did I say it was thin? Because it's thin. You did mention that. I know I did. The one thing I think When I first saw these, the one thing I thought that I wasn't wild about, and I still think that now, is we've got sort of an elongated honeycomb pattern on the dial. Yes, I'm with you on that. I'd like to see that. I maybe just don't understand it. I maybe just don't understand. Yeah, I don't get it either. Why? I feel the same way. I need a reason, Andrew. No, I agree. Um, we've got a sub 10 millimeter case, nine seven specifically for both the 36 and the 40, which is terrific. That's perfect. Thank you. I don't, that's what I need. I sub 10. Yes. Perfect. Um, Andrew, gosh, starting at 13 grand. Very Rolex-y. I think it's the best Rolex. If you want, you can get this in rose gold with diamond bezel, okay? From the factory. Or platinum. Yeah, steel, rose gold, and platinum, all available. Presumably available. Maybe just get your place in line for your... sub and hop on this. So I've long said the Sky Dweller is the most interesting Rolex, not because of the way it looks. And frankly, I think the dial on the Sky Dweller is a little obnoxious. but it's got the most interesting or logically interesting, I think, movement in a Rolex watch. I think that's been replaced now. We just do not see new escapement technologies come out. The Swiss lever is just so ubiquitous that any sort of new mechanical escapement design is just you know, it just doesn't happen. Maybe, maybe happened three or four times in modern history. So, and this is a huge leap on the, the, It might not change the game, but it's a big evolution at least within at least within Rolex's Manufacturing because you know they manufacture at scale So, you know, we don't see anything besides the Swiss lever really being made at scale Rolex wouldn't be pushing this to market if they couldn't do this. Yeah, so we've got a tangential low friction escapement that Rolex is now gonna make at scale. Cool. Yeah. Cool. And it's in a great watch. Unlike the Sky-Dweller, which is a really cool movement, and for me, less than desirable watch. It's cool. Agree. You know, Omega's got their Co-Axial, right? Which is a similar like friction lowering side by side escapement, but, um, not really going to get it done. And then, you know, we see George Daniels or whoever that are making these like really, but they just can't make them at scale. I'm excited to see some, some watchmakers get these, get their movements or get their hands on these movements and get a look into them. This is pretty cool. Yeah. which is not common for Rolex. I think dropping fully new technology, I think that's cool. Pretty sure my buddy Roger has one of these. I'm gonna ask to wear it next time I see him. Federer? That's all the watches we're gonna talk about. Look, it's Watches and Wonders, you guys. There's eight billion watches that came out. Go read some, go read. Go read some words, touch grass. Andrew, other things, what do you got? So I, a couple weeks ago, went out to dinner, went and saw a comedy show. What I had for dinner was not what I expected to have. I was, we're at the restaurant a little bit before our reservation, we're sitting at the bar having a cocktail, and I saw this play go by. And I was like, what the fuck is that? Because that's exactly what I want to eat right now. It's called a cassoulet. And cassoulet is something that I'd heard. I wasn't super familiar with it. We're all familiar, but not familiar. Yeah, right? So this cassoulet comes by, and what it looks like is white bean chili, basically, with a, this one was a duck leg confit and a couple varieties of sausage. So anyway, I see that go by, I eat it a short time later, and I'm just like, man, I need that in my life. So I made a cassoulet, like a stovetop cassoulet instead of in the oven, because it's meant to be baked in a Dutch oven or some kind of vessel like that. It was so easy. It's just white bean chili without meat. Then you put the meat on top. I did a chicken thigh confit. And without chili. Maybe without chili. There's no chilies in it. Yeah, right. but it's just white bean stew that you just stew and thicken up. Oh my God, it was so easy and it tastes so good. So that's my other thing, is just try making a cassoulet. Did you make a duck confit? No, I made chicken thigh confit. Okay, that's great. Yeah, which turns out great. In duck fat? No, I did just oil and lard. And then today I spooned out, because the oil was still in the, pan, I just scooped oil over Brussels sprouts. Did you cook it in the house? Yeah. Last time I used lard in the house, I regretted it. Just in the oven, at 225, so that's, I mean, confit is super low, so at 225, it doesn't ever, it just gets hot, right? There's no like. Even then, I did a pork belly and lard in the house, it's been a few years ago, but even at that low temp, it's still like, I thought it was pretty stinky. I didn't I didn't get that. I did primarily oil but then some added lard But I then used the the oil for Brussels sprouts tonight. Oh my gosh Yeah, so good because it's infused with a lot of fat and garlic and herbs and I was like, oh, I need a bottle that yeah, I Don't know if I should refrigerate it or not. I mean probably not. I mean, you know, it's just oil and fat. It's basically I don't usually refrigerate bacon grease. Um, I think you could get, I mean, I think things could grow on it for sure. Eventually.
Andrew Yeah.
Everett But I'm going to go through that. Cool. I'm going to put it through a strainer and put it in a jar and I'll probably use it in the next two weeks. Love it. Yeah, that's cool. Make a cassoulet. It's so easy. That's so good. Uh, use one of your glass baking dishes, fill it with oil, throw some skin on bone in chicken thighs in at two 25 started on Saturday at lunch. broil them right before you eat them, not in the oil. You want them to crisp up. Yeah, it's fantastic. It's one of my favorite things I've ever made. I made some breadcrumbs to go on top of it. I just took the panko and toasted it in butter and herbs. That was good. French cooking is available. Got I did get that the twin pack of Julia Child's mastering the art of French cooking because it was on like 62% off on Amazon during the spring sale and I've been reading that like an actual book. Yes Page after page. Yeah I've got a thing do me You have any of those things in your life that like you spent too much money on and you don't regret it, but then you still feel a little like discomfort at how much money you spent on it. But then you're like, I don't regret it. But then you feel uncomfortable. Do you ever have, do you have any things in your life that you have that pattern on? No. By the time I spend the money on it, I'm, I've made my decision. Yeah. I, a few years ago, um, was, had my picture taken for the purposes of GQ magazine's watch newsletter. Uh, and so I wanted to like go buy something fun for that. And so I bought a flannel shirt for that. It just felt like, like the season was good. And I just was like, yeah, that's, that's good. And I found a flannel shirt and I just loved it. It was made by Gitman Bros Vintage, a.k.a. GBV. Gitman Bros is a sort of Americana brand that seems like it's been around for a century, but I think was only started in the 80s by a- By 78. Mm-hmm. By a family of historically well-known shirt makers. They started their own brand. Um, and they're just known for making really, really good United States shirts, uh, usually with United States fabric. So they have a flannel shirt line in their vintage or a flannel shirt fabric in their vintage line that they call a shaggy brushed flannel or perhaps a brushed shaggy flannel. And so I bought this shirt and I've probably worn it 10 dozen times and I just love it. It's probably my favorite article of clothing of all time. They're outrageously expensive. Yeah. Retail on this shirt is $250. You can find them on sale for between $200 and $250. Website has it at 212 right now on sale. 212 at Porterhouse, which is a local Eugene's store, by the way, if you go to the link in the show notes. If I do them. But it was, you know, it was one of the, I just bought another one. And so that's how I know. because it's an absurd amount of money to spend on a shirt. But I'm like, you know what, this is just, it's a cotton flannel, so it's not a wool flannel. So if you don't love wool shirts, I think Pendleton flannels are terrific. This is a traditional cotton flannel. It's not absurdly thick. Some of the Japanese flannel shirts you can get are, like pretty thick. They're like closer to a shacket. Yeah, that's right. Sure. That's right. It's not textured. This brushed, uh, the shed, the brushed shaggy flannel that they sell is like bizarrely soft. It's almost fleecy. But it's not. It's like a thin flannel, but then you're like, wait, what is that? I love these two shirts. Two of them now that I own $500 worth of flannel. Uh, it's absurd. Don't judge me. But if you do, if you're like, I love really good things and I don't mind spending way too much money to have those really good things. This is not a work flannel. You could work in it seems too soft, but you wouldn't do that you wouldn't want to do it so This is how you tell feel on the inside feel this right here Yeah, I guess yeah, so it's a really sturdy fabric yeah But because of the way they've brought anyway, sorry I could go on and on I love this shirt I have two of them now. They're different colors I love it.
Andrew That's my other thing.
Everett The other one I have is green, you've seen it before. It's like a dark black and green. Yeah, yeah, I have. Yeah. I didn't know what I was looking at. So this is the new one? This is the new one, yeah. The one I'm wearing now. The blue. Anyway, that's it. That's my other thing for the week. Andrew, do you have anything you want to add before we move this thing along? I'm just so impressed that we can be so fantastic week over week. He doesn't mean that sarcastically, stop laughing. You, I can see you. Hey you guys, thanks for joining us for this episode of 40 in 20, the WatchClicker podcast. Do me a favor. Do me a favor. Go to our website, it's watchclicker.com. That's where we post photos and articles and reviews and other written things. If you wanna follow us on social media, you can do that on Instagram, at 40 in 20, underscore WatchClicker, we're at WatchClicker. Pictures, updates, occasional stories. I think at some point somebody did a reel. If you want to support us, and oh boy, I hope you do, you can do that on patreon.com slash 40 and 20. That is where we get the money that we need to keep this podcast going and the website and other things. And, and don't forget to tune back in next Tuesday for another hour of watches, food, drinks, life, and other things we like. Bye bye.